Latest ingredient round-up – from BASF’s 100% natural derived stabilizer to the use of renewable ingredients in fragrance

Latest ingredient round-up – from BASF’s 100% natural derived stabilizer to the use of renewable ingredients in fragrance

Natural and renewable ingredients lead the way in fragrance development, study finds

There is a rise in vegan, cruelty-free and organic certified fragrances which all points to more demand for natural and renewable ingredients, a Frost & Sullivan report claims.

Titled Growth Opportunities for Natural Fragrance in Personal Care, the report points to significant innovation in these areas, which in turn is leading to big changes in labelling of fragrances, with certifications and clean labels becoming more prevalent.

The report tracks the global fragrance category over the past and finds that increased competition and a shift away from celebrity fragrances is seeing consumers shift towards fragrances that are perceived to be more natural, safer and better for the environment.

“The fragrance technology segment is highly consolidated and is led by a few major global flavour and fragrance houses that drive the innovation landscape based on the needs of brands and end consumers,” said Monami Dey, Technical Insights Research Analyst at Frost & Sullivan.

“Nowadays, consumers are more inclined towards Cosmos-, Ecocert-, and Halal-certified natural and organic products. Moreover, we witness an increase in demand for products with more transparency on the ingredients label.”

The report also finds that major players are also investing significantly in innovation, which is changing the fragrance landscape, fast.

The report authors recommend that to stay ahead of these changes and the competition, smaller fragrance players should develop partnerships with global players to improve profit margins and expand their global footprint.

They should also be leveraging digital tools such as AI, utilizing technologically advanced steam distillation processes, exploring biosynthetic options, as well as biodegradable raw materials.

BASF launches 100% naturally derived stabilizer

BASF Care Creations has launches Lamesoft Balance, a stabilizer for hair and skin care products derived from hydrogenated castor oil.

As a natural structure enhancer, the ingredient can form a part of a surfactant-based systems, allowing the stabilization of wax-based opacifiers in rinse-off applications, providing a homongenous rheology in finished formulation.

It is also cold pressable and suitable for formulations that are certified for natural cosmetics certifications, including Natrue and Cosmos.

“The stabilization of fine particle wax dispersions in rinse-off formulations is often very challenging,” said Dr. Hans-Martin Haake, Head of Market Development Hair, Body, Oral Care at BASF Personal Care.

“With Lamesoft Balance BASF now offers a solution that is readily biodegradable and helps manufacturers of skin and hair cleansing products to stabilize their formulations without using synthetic polymers. The product is also suitable for alternative surfactant systems.”

BASF says that its performance and sensory tests have shown that Lamesoft Balance enhances the foam wash properties in body wash formulations and provides a pleasant skin feeling.

In shampoos, the ingredient is said to significantly boost the hair conditioning properties of formulations containing cationic conditioning agents.

DSM says latest SCCS opinion proves alpha-arbutin is safe for cosmetics use

The team at Switzerland-based DSM Personal care says that its experts have convinced the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) that alfpha-arbutin is safe for cosmetic and personal care formulations.

The SCCS’s opinion concluded that alpha-arbutin safe as levels of up to 2% in face care products and at up to 0.5% in body care products.

Alpha-arbutin was introduced by DSM ten years ago, targeting the appearance of a more even skin tone, which has been proved to outperform similar ingredients, such as Kojic acid and beta-arbutin at a 1% dose level.

The ingredient has become the subject of safety discussions in the EU in recent years, and in 2010 the SCCS called for additional safety data, resulting in DSM experts submitting an extensive product dossier to back up the safety credentials of the ingredient.

“Skin tone application is one of the biggest growing segments in the skin care market, especially in the Asian markets, said Dr. Mathias Gempeler, Head Global Marketing Skin Care at DSM.

“I’m extremely pleased with the positive SCCS opinion as it allows the cosmetic industry to continue using this high-performing and easy-to-formulate active ingredient.”

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Simon Pitman established his career as a business journalist 25 years ago. He is the founding editor of the Cosmetics Design B2B business journals, which continue to be the leading beauty and personal care news source worldwide. For almost two decades Simon has been focused on what makes the industry tick, uncovering the latest technologies and product launches, as well as the newest trends to impact this fast paced industry. He is also a veteran of the in-cosmetics Group events, and having attended every one of the shows worldwide he has developed a deep knowledge about everything pertaining to cosmetics formulation.

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