Latest ingredient round-up: from an animal-free collagen to an anti-grey hair formula

Latest ingredient round-up: from an animal-free collagen to an anti-grey hair formula

Jland launches collagen from yeast fermentation

Chinese ingredients company Jland has launched Biollagen, a collagen ingredient made from Pichia Pastoris engineering yeast.

The ingredient is made using a high-density fermentation process that also combines high-efficiency separation and purification processes to give it an excellent sustainability profile.

With the INCI name SH Polypeptide-123, the ingredient is also vegan, while offering excellent anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing and moisturising properties, on top of lightening and skin reparation claims.

The Jland development team say they have created Biollagen to have high safety credentials, making it compatible for use with low immunogenicity, as well as being non-allergenic.

While clinical trials have proved the ingredient to be economical to use and colourless, it is also said to have 200 times the performance of animal-derived collagen and is also Vegan and Halal accredited.

Greentech launches anti-greying ingredient

Greentech says it has developed a natural-based solution to recover hair colour once it has started to go grey.

Called Arcolys, the ingredient is said to restore the natural hair colour, while increasing antioxidant properties, fighting the development of further grey hairs and acting on an individual’s sense of wellbeing by improving self-esteem.

The ingredient has been developed using an extract of the Picorhiza Scrophulariiflora Root, which is a native of Asian mountainous region and commonly used in ayurvedic medicine.

The Greentech development team worked around the principle that depigmentation of hair is due to a lack of melanin, a decrease of melanogenesis activity and a reduced number of differentiated and functional melanocytes.

Not to mention environmental stress factors that add to oxidative stress on the hair, which is another factor in the depigmentation process.

Arcolys acts to reverse the depigmentation processes by acting on the processes behind the canities – which are the mechanisms responsible for the greying of hair.

The company conducted clinical trials on a group of 44 men and women with an average age of 49 to determine what impact a twice-daily application of a 1% dose of Arcolys had over a 5 month period.

The results showed that grey hair density was reduced by an average of 19%, while grey hair proportion was reduced by an average of 15%. Concurrent psychological tests also showed that self-esteem improved by an average of 8% during the same period.

Plant extract shows hair regrowth properties

A study conducted by scientists in South Korea has found that Viola verecunda extract could be as effective as the popular hair regrowth drug Minoxidil.

Viola verecunda is a species of violet that is reasonably common in North-East Asia and has been used in oriental medicine as a means of treating abscesses and a range of external injuries.

In joint research conducted between the Nakdonggang National Institute of Biological Resource and the Jeju National University, trials were carried out using the plant extract on cells that play a crucial role in hair follicle formation and hair growth.

The researchers observed that the extract activated the transmission path that regulates cell growth and survival.

The teams say they will be doing follow-up research to determine if the extract has a similar or better effect than Minoxidil when it comes to the treatment of male-pattern baldness.

Givaudan launches new fragrance ingredient technology

Givaudan has launched VivaSentz, a new technology that touches on all areas of fragrance development that aims to enhance a consumer’s sense of wellbeing.

Givaudan’s Health and Well-being Centre of Excellence, in Ashford, UK, teamed up with an academic research partner to build a qualified metric that measures well-being in relation to fragrance by covering psychological, physiological and social dimensions.

The development team said it carried out a study on more than 2,000 consumers to demonstrate that fragrances developed using the VivaSentz metrics could have a positive impact on the measurement of well-being.

Jeremy Compton, global head of fragrance science and technology at Givaudan said of the development:

Aligned to our Company’s purpose of creating for happier, healthier lives with love for nature, it will influence the way perfumes are created and will bring meaningful fragrance solutions to meet the growing consumer demands to counterbalance negative feelings and stress.”

Kao study points to Carbonic acid as hair straightener

Researchers at Japanese cosmetic giant Kao have released information about a new study suggesting that carbonic acid could be used as an effective hair straightener.

The research team reported that the compound can be effective in enhancing p-Toluensulfonic acid penetration into the hair, which in turn improves the effects of styling products and treatments.

The company had already established that carbonic acid could act on the keratin of the stratum corneum to make skin smoother, so decided to study the effects further on hair.

The team are progressing their research, stating that wool-derived keratin mixed with carbonated water had a clear effect on water retention for hair.

Further tests determined that the carbonated water had a positive impact on the stress relaxation rate of hair, leading the research team to believe that carbonic acid should have a similar effect.

More research showed that a solution infused with pTS salt and succinic acid in carbonated water showed that the stress relaxation rate was considerably higher in hair follicles treated with the carbonated water, as opposed to the same solution with non-carbonated water.

“This study suggests that the effect on hair may be enhanced by combining carbonic acid with a component that has a hair-modifying effect. It is speculated that this is because carbonic acid promotes the penetration of the modified component into the hair,” ​the researchers said.

For more ingredients news, catch up with this ingredients round-up about CSAR and silica substitutes. 

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Simon Pitman established his career as a business journalist 25 years ago. He is the founding editor of the Cosmetics Design B2B business journals, which continue to be the leading beauty and personal care news source worldwide. For almost two decades Simon has been focused on what makes the industry tick, uncovering the latest technologies and product launches, as well as the newest trends to impact this fast paced industry. He is also a veteran of the in-cosmetics Group events, and having attended every one of the shows worldwide he has developed a deep knowledge about everything pertaining to cosmetics formulation.

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