Latest ingredient round-up: from CSAR updates to silica substitutes

Latest ingredient round-up: from CSAR updates to silica substitutes

Aprinnova launches Biosilica

Aprinnova has launched a new plant-derived silica ingredient that is derived from an agricultural bi-product, sugarcane ashes.

Called Biosilica, the ingredient came about thanks to a joint research and development partnership between the company and the Universidade Catolica Portuguesa – Ecola Suoperior de Biotechnologia, in Porto, Portugal.

It is an alternative to conventional silica, which is widely used in cosmetics and personal care formulations as an absorbent powder, thickening agent and even a microplastics alternative.

Silica is a non-renewable ingredient that is sourced from sand dredging, which in turn requires a lot of energy to mine and extract it, adding to significant amounts of CO2 emissions.

The team set about to create a silica replacement that was both plant-based and with a significantly reduced production footprint.

The development team says that Biosilica has proven to have high oil absorbance, is homogenous, has a soft touch and is 100% biogenic.

The company is ramping up to release samples next month and will fully launch the ingredient in 2021.

Socati get USDA organic certification for its CBD ingredients

With the race on to source high quality CBD ingredient, Texas-based Socati has given itself a head start by securing USDA organic certification for its range of CBD ingredients.

The portfolio includes both CBD ingredients and tinctures for topical use, as well ingredients and products for food and beverage.

The company says that by securing the certification it can now ensure that no synthetic fertilizers or herbicides are using in the cultivation of the hemp that is used to produce its products.

“Through a commitment to clean label initiatives, natural production practices, and significant investment in research and development, Socati has now achieved the breakthrough of being awarded its USDA Organic certification, the gold standard for supply chain integrity, creating competitive differentiation and increased consumer trust at a time when the industry desperately needs it,” said Josh Epstein, CEO of Socati.

Now that the company has secured the USDA Organic certification is has also launched new organic CBD ingredients, targeting brands that want to include broad spectrum oils and organic full-spectrum oils into their finished products.

Biomarine ingredients provider Algaia accelerates sustainability plan

France-based Algaia has announced the expansion and acceleration of its sustainability plans with the goal of achieving a minimal carbon footprint by 2025.

The company has appointed a new CEO, Frederic Faure, who is also one of the co-founders of the business, and will now be charged with driving the accelerated sustainability initiative.

The aim of the new plan is to ‘dramatically’ advance the company’s co-extraction strategy of fresh seaweeds in-house and optimize the use of raw materials to reduce the overall environmental impact.

Using multiple-extraction biotechnology process, the company says it is setting a goal of to extract 80 – 90% of the fresh seaweed biomass that it harvests by 2025, instead of the 25 – 30% for conventional methods.

“Our know-how in extraction, marine biotechnologies, and our innovative multiple stage extraction processes can allow us to generate new byproducts, meeting the needs for more sustainable and naturally sourced solutions,” said Faure.

“We set an ambitious goal to address one of the biggest environmental challenges in producing algae-based products today: keeping up with the fast-growing demand.”.

New trials show ApplePhenon alleviates UV damage

ApplePhenon, the beauty from within ingredient from Japanese company BCG World, has been shown to alleviate damage, according to newly conducted clinical trials.

The independent study was registered and conducted in Japan, and was carried out on the skin of 59 healthy women over the course of 12 weeks, when doses of both 300mg and 600mg were administered every day.

The research found that the benefits included a reduction in redness from sunburn following UV irradiation, a lower delta increase in melanin formation and less skin darkening in all the participants who received doses of ApplePhenon.

“In the current study, ApplePhenon oral administration was effective in inhibiting pigmentation by UV irradiation,” said Yanmei Li, Global Chief Scientific Officer for BGG.

“This is the second clinical study showing that ApplePhenon may be effective as a complementary support for healthy skin.”

New rule from China on cosmetics ingredients application

In China the final version of the Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulation (CASR) has been published, replacing older regulations that began in 1989.

The new regulations focus on the definition and classification of cosmetics, new cosmetic ingredients application, claims substantiation, safety and assessment requirements and business obligations.

For formulation and ingredient players, the new cosmetic ingredient application rules mean that cosmetic ingredients are now divided into new ingredients and existing ingredients.

New cosmetic ingredients that are deemed to be of higher risk will be subject to scrutiny before registration with authorities, whereas other new ingredients will be added to the inventory of existing ingredients.

Those ingredients that will be considered higher risk are UV filters, preservatives, hair dyes, whitening agents, and colourants.

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Simon Pitman established his career as a business journalist 25 years ago. He is the founding editor of the Cosmetics Design B2B business journals, which continue to be the leading beauty and personal care news source worldwide. For almost two decades Simon has been focused on what makes the industry tick, uncovering the latest technologies and product launches, as well as the newest trends to impact this fast paced industry. He is also a veteran of the in-cosmetics Group events, and having attended every one of the shows worldwide he has developed a deep knowledge about everything pertaining to cosmetics formulation.

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