World’s leading personal care ingredients event hosted 8,784 industry professionals, showcasing 100s of new product launches alongside over 130 hours of invaluable educational sessions
Colour cosmetics, sustainability, natural ingredients and innovation & science were the focal point of this year’s hugely successful in-cosmetics Global event, as international personal care manufacturers congregated in London to identify the trends and novel ingredients that will help them create inspiring new products.
“I identified lots of exciting innovations, made some great new contacts and cultivated relationships with existing suppliers. It is the biggest show in the industry,” proclaimed Bertrand Schmitt, R&D – Manager for Hair Innovation Sourcing, L’Oréal.
Nadine Leichsenring, Global Procurement at Beiersdorf, added: “It’s fantastic to be able to meet all my contacts – from all over the world – in one place. It’s such a time-efficient way to see everyone and we wouldn’t get the chance to do this in any other setting.”
Over three action-packed days, 8,784 scientists and marketers – from multinational and indie brands – visited ExCeL London to connect with new suppliers, witness innovative ingredient launches and attend educational seminars, workshops and tutorials. More than 100 countries were represented this year, with 72% of the audience travelling from outside the UK, reaffirming in-cosmetics Global’s position as the world’s leading personal care ingredients event.
Brian Ecclefield, International Sales Manager, AMA Laboratories Inc., exhibited at the event and commented: “We really enjoyed the event and it was very busy. We have attended the exhibition for seven years and this was on par with the previous most successful ones. We gained a tonne of new business leads and certainly spoke to the right people in the industry.”
Unveiling insights and discussing issues
Alongside the exhibition, in-cosmetics’ Global trend-led Seminar Programme added to the air of excitement. Dozens of highly respected experts highlighted the latest market trends, from how to use digital effectively through to the complex world of halal beauty and discussed the growing influence of natural ingredients and the K-beauty craze. With Article 50 being triggered just weeks before the event opened, the implications of Brexit was high on the agenda, while manufacturers were keen to identify ways they could target the millennial population.
Thorsten Szanyi, Global Category Manager, Raw Materials at Beiersdorf, said: “I attended the CTPA’s Brexit session and found it very interesting and highly relevant for our industry.”
In the Marketing Trends theatre, high profile speakers from Mintel, Kline, Peclers and the CTPA drew in large audiences of more than 250 as they revealed the latest global beauty trends.
Nicholas Micallef, Senior Analyst – Beauty and Personal Care at Euromonitor International, also revealed the company’s new insights into the industry, informing attendees that the US and Chinese markets had propelled growth in premium products in the main segments last millennials year. The global market intelligence company said that premium beauty will generate an additional US$20bn of revenue by 2021, as it continues to be the driving force behind the global beauty industry.
Thierry Sassine, Global Category Manager, Innovation Director, Bayer Consumer Health, added: “I found the Marketing Trends presentations extremely useful. It was great to see innovations in the context of the latest trends, from a marketing rather than a scientific perspective.”
This year’s Workshop programme addressed a host of critical industry challenges, including Europe’s ever-changing regulatory landscape, the future of anti-ageing in skincare, the science behind modern haircare and the evolution of the microbiome.
Throughout in-cosmetics Global, leading suppliers, including Dr Straetmans, Cargill Personal Care, Solvay Novecare and Salicylates & Chemicals, presented R&D teams with their latest, most innovative ingredients during a series of Technical Seminars sponsored by Clariant. Among those to present was Dr. Katerina Karagianni, R&I Senior Scientist at Solvay Novecare, who revealed intricate details about the company’s Polycare Split Therapy solution – an alternative to split ends trimming. Dr. Rakesh Ratnam, Technical Director at Salicylates & Chemicals, also discussed SALIBACT, a unique antimicrobial agent that offers manufacturers a more natural alternative to Triclosan.
New areas a huge success
With water usage and emissions in the spotlight, and consumers demanding products that have minimal impact on the environment, the new, interactive Sustainability Corner showcased some of the latest initiatives from brands and suppliers. Sponsored by Solvay, some of the industry’s leading players, such as Beiersdorf AG, DSM Nutritional Products and Neal’s Yard Remedies, also presented ways of embedding sustainability into innovation, sustainable sourcing and Fairtrade beauty.
Another new feature at in-cosmetics Global was the Make-up Bar, sponsored by BASF. Displaying a range of innovative pigments and inspirational technologies from companies including Seppic, Brenntag, Induchem, Lubrizol and Nikko Chemicals, scientists and marketers gathered to identify novel ways of grasping the opportunities presented by colour cosmetics. Ronald Britton’s Bio-glitter®, a biodegradable glitter that is visually indistinguishable from polyester glitter, proved particularly popular with the crowds and was presented with the inaugural Make-up GOLD Award – for the most innovative development in colour cosmetics and make-up.
Cyrielle Jeannot, Market Analyst and Product Line Management at Roquette, commented: “I have tested all the ingredients on the Make-up Bar and it has been great to get up close to these products. The bio-glitter was one of my personal favourites. It’s the first time I have experienced a bar like this, and I think it’s an innovative idea that is useful for seeing what trends are upcoming.”
In another new addition to in-cosmetics Global, Nuritas, a digital biotech company from Ireland, was announced the overall winner in the first ever Johnson & Johnson Innovation Flash Cosmetics Pitch. With its impressive discovery of peptides from natural plant sources using artificial intelligence and DNA analysis, the company caught the attention of the judges in a competition which saw 11 international start-ups take to the stage to present their innovations across six categories – anti-ageing, devices, digital beauty, microbiome, naturals and personalisation – to the company’s leading panel of R&D and marketing experts.
Learning about new textures and formulations
A staggering 108 brand new personal care ingredients were showcased as part of the Ashland sponsored Innovation Zone. Visitors were drawn to the pioneering new products – all of which had been launched within the last six months. Brenntag, Sonneborn, Gattefossé and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics were just some of the names with exciting new ingredients on display.
With such a high standard of entries, the judges had a difficult job choosing the overall Innovation Zone award winners. Laboratoires Expanscience (PASSIOLINE®) and Ashland (FiberHance BM Solution) took home the Best Ingredient Gold Awards in the active and functional ingredient categories respectively.
The Brenntag-sponsored Sensory Bar enchanted visitors with displays of exciting new textures and sensations. BASF’s Moisturesque Face Delight and a crushed ice gel for men from Coatex proved a hit. However, Biesterfeld scooped the Sensory Award with its unique Body & Seoul creation – an innovative formulation kit containing seven products, such as a cleansing oil and overnight lip mask, that have been influenced by Asian trends.
Meanwhile practical sessions at the Formulation Lab, which were exclusively designed for R&D representatives, were entirely booked up for the duration of the show. Participants enjoyed a hands-on tutorial from SinoLion, involving a ‘sulfate-free’ cleansing product, with great foaming and thickening ability. Symrise AG also demonstrated how its easy formulation stabilising material could turn an unstable sunscreen formula into a stable version using one material, fast.
Beatrice Baars, Formula Development Solids, Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics GmbH, said: “I saw some very interesting developments, particularly at the Make-up and Sensory Bars. These areas of the show are great and showcase the most interesting ingredients and trends for manufacturers.”
Returning to Amsterdam in 2018
Cathy Laporte, Senior Exhibition Director for in-cosmetics Global, concluded: “This year’s event in London was a resounding success and our biggest ever event outside Paris – the home of cosmetics. We were particularly pleased with the turnout, with an overall unique visitor attendance close to 9,000 and 28% coming from within the UK. This was a brilliant result for us, especially as London had not hosted the event in 15 years.
“We are now looking forward to in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam from 17-19 April 2018. With 90% of exhibitor space already booked – our highest-ever onsite rebooking – the confidence shown by the industry in our event is at its strongest ever. Striving to constantly improve our offer, we are looking at introducing a second Formulation Lab and the successful Formulation Challenge, pioneered at in-cosmetics North America last year.”
Visitors can download the full Post Show Report here: http://www.in-cosmetics.com/showreview2017, which provides access to more exclusive show statistics, as well as in-depth guides on the Innovation Zone, Sensory Bar and Make-up Bar products.