Beauty standards report, Coty’s ambitious growth plans, new formulations

Beauty standards report, Coty’s ambitious growth plans, new formulations

A new report highlights the ever-important demand for true inclusivity and representation in the beauty space, demonstrating key findings and recommendations. Global companies are setting their financial targets for the upcoming years and making purchases to embolden their presence in their specific beauty and personal care categories. Brands are also unveiling new science-led ranges and upgraded formulas.

In our bi-weekly cosmetics and personal care roundup, we explore what’s new in the industry around the globe, from trends and launches to collaborations and acquisitions.

Report unveils demand for new beauty and imagery standards

Aesthetic brands and product provider Allergan Aesthetics, and a team of aesthetic experts, skinbetter science, have published a new report from their Driving Racial Equity in Aesthetic Medicine (DREAM) Initiative.

The report, Forces of Beauty, seeks to provide a new understanding of what inclusive and representative beauty looks like in today’s industry and broader society. It provides this by “shedding light on how narrowly defined Eurocentric ideals continue to impact women of colour”, the brands behind the report state in a recent press release. In gathering insights for the report, the publishers surveyed over 4,000 women aged between 21 and 65 from multiple geographic locations and backgrounds.

The report finds that only 17% of all women, regardless of their race and ethnicity, feel society accepts their racial beauty. Additionally, 1 in 4 Black, Hispanic, and Multi-Racial women believe that society’s beauty standards are racist. A further 52% of women agree that “anyone can be beautiful”, with only 11% of women agreeing that society makes them feel beautiful, key insights from the report reveal.

“We need to create a candid dialogue about racial representation and perceptions within our aesthetics community,” says Jonah Shacknai, Executive Chairman of skinbetter science.

The report looks at what defines beauty, how beauty impacts women’s lives and the interplay between beauty and race. In exploring the relationship between racial/ethnic diversity and beauty for women, the companies aim to raise awareness about the need for inclusive and representative beauty and provide education and encourage action in the medical and consumer spaces.

“Historically, the industry hasn’t included all women in its definition of beauty,” says Carrie Strom, Senior Vice President at AbbVie and President of Global Allergan Aesthetics. “As industry leaders, our goal is to create a more equitable beauty and aesthetics industry that focuses on diversity, representation, and inclusion.” Forces of Beauty strives to achieve that, Strom continues: “Impacting change and creating a space where the origins of beauty are honoured, the definition of beauty is vastly expanded upon, and where uniqueness is the standard.”

The duo has also announced its long-term partnership with branded and commercial content specialists Shutterstock Studios. A multi-media launch will support the published report. Together, the companies have conceptualised a video series created by Shutterstock Studios that features four women sharing their stories and experiences. These stories will connect to the chapters in the report, which focus on: defining beauty, empowering uniqueness, the history of beauty standards, and appropriation.

Essity marks two significant milestones

Global health and hygiene company, Essity, makes two sizable financial dealings in as many weeks. Firstly, the personal care brand announced it had raised €500 million ($484 mn) in the bond market. Secondly, it has completed its acquisitions of Canadian company Knix Wear and the Australian organisation Modibodi.

Essity has produced €500 million in the bond market under its Euro Medium Term Note (EMTN) programme. The bond’s re-offer yield was 3.094%, with a maturity date of 21st September 2026. The transaction was placed with over 80 investors, with BofA Securities, Commerzbank, NatWest Markets, and SEB acting as joint bookrunners for the transaction. The bond will be listed on the Luxembourg Stock Exchange.

The company has finalised its purchases of Knix Wear and Modibodi, two leading personal care companies that provide leakproof products for periods and incontinence. By expanding its offering in the intimate hygiene category, Essity hopes to grow its presence in the category. The company notes that leakproof apparel is the fastest growing area in the intimate hygiene segment, which includes feminine care and incontinence products.

Essity has acquired 80% of the shares in Knix, which provides intimate apparel to a range of markets, including the US and Canada. To date, Knix operates largely direct-to-consumer (DTC) through online channels. The founder and CEO of Knix, Joanna Griffiths, holds the remaining 20% share of Knix and will continue to stay in the position of president at the company.

Modibodi offers personal care consumers a range of leakproof apparel for periods and incontinence. The brand has developed a strong presence in Australia, New Zealand and the UK. Its business model sees Modibodi operating an online DTC approach and has seen rising sales in physical and digital retailers.

Sanitas Skincare launches collagen-centric collection

US biointelligent skincare brand, Sanitas, has released its new range of vegan products, hailed as micro-collagen. The brand states that its latest formula has been designed to deliver collagen into the skin as it aims to prompt rapid and sustained skin changes.

Sanitas’s research and development (R&D) team brought together its new micro-collagen ingredient technology with selected ingredients to produce the new line. Sanitas’s collagen collection features a recovery mask and a recovery serum, promoting the inclusion of collagen and elastin in its formulas.

Both new formulations contain two forms of vegan collagen, vegan elastin, eight different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid and a colloidal gold delivery system bonded to vitamin C and peptides.

“Until now, we’ve never featured collagen in our products because the molecular weight was too large to penetrate the skin effectively. All of the available forms were either bovine or marine-derived, which doesn’t align with our values,”  says Lisa Crary, Owner and CEO, Sanitas.

However, in 2021, its R&D team found “breakthrough forms” of vegan collagen and elastin with a molecular weight that is 20 times smaller than forms traditionally available to manufacturers, the brand states. “These new ingredients actually penetrate the skin to help preserve and rebuild collagen,” adds Crary.

Clinical studies demonstrate the efficacy of the products on users’ skin, Sanitas reveals. The results show that when used together, participants found: Up to 72% improvement in crow’s feet, up to 49% improvement in texture, up to 30% decrease in visible pores, up to 27% reduction in visible spots, and up to 24% improvement in redness.

Zotos Professional relaunches its hair care line

Global hair care name Zotos Professional has reintroduced its Biotera brand and product portfolio after upgrading its formulas. The new brand has now emerged as Zotos Professional’s first microbiome-friendly certified hair care range, formulated to preserve scalp health.

Zotos Professional teamed up with microbiologist, Dr Kristin Neumann, to test the products to understand how they respond to the scalp’s microbiota. Using the latest techniques in microbiome research to evaluate each product, Neumann says: “MyMicrobiome is an independent control body that rigorously tests products for the impact on the skin and scalp’s microbiome.”

“The ‘Microbiome-friendly certification’ facilitates the decision of consumers when looking for skin and microbiome-friendly products,” Neumann adds.

Zotos Professional states it has spent years redeveloping Biotera’s portfolio, ensuring that each of its certified products would be considerate of the diversity of the scalp’s microbiome, which comprises an ecosystem of microorganisms with both good and bad bacteria.

The company also collaborated with Penny James, board-certified Trichologist IAT, IoT, and hairstylist, to better understand scalp and hair. “Maintaining the scalp microbiome will reduce itching, inflammation, and hair cycle interruption,” says James.

The new Biotera formulas, which contain coconut oil, aim to help consumers maintain a healthy scalp and leave hair feeling nourished and moisturised. Zotos Professional will be launching additional ranges in Autumn 2022.

Coty strives to double skincare sales by 2025

Global beauty company Coty sets out its comprehensive strategy to expand its presence in the industry and, specifically, reach skincare sales of €518 million to €621 million ($500mn-$600mn) by the financial year (FY) 2025. Coty plans to further accelerate growth in FY26 and subsequent years.

Coty has released new launches and growth plans for its core skincare brands to meet its goals. The company presented its latest update on its skincare strategy, one of its six strategic growth pillars, at an event at Coty’s Monaco skincare R&D and manufacturing facility on 21st September 2022.

Focusing on skincare, Coty will centre its efforts on its prestige brands. At the event, the company detailed its skincare intellectual property, upcoming operational and portfolio milestones, early evidence of success, and Coty’s financial goals through FY25 and into the future.

“We have begun our skincare revolution in Hainan and mainland China, where we are already seeing proof that our brands, formulations, and communication can win over consumers,” says Sue Y. Nabi, Chief Executive Officer of Coty.

Coty’s scientific update will focus on its technologies in five key areas: full-light protection, oxygen delivery, retinol vectorisation, DNA repair, and bio-fermented blends. Coty has patents in these areas extending for the next five-ten years. Coty has a brand portfolio of prestige skincare brands, including Lancaster, Orveda, philosophy, Kylie Skin and SKKN by Kim.

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Natasha Spencer-Jolliffe started her career as a business journalist over a decade ago. During this time, she has reported for a host of publications as a print, digital and broadcast journalist, exploring the beauty and personal care industry from a business perspective and how it intersects with environmental, scientific, legal and sociological perspectives. She also hosts industry webinars and provides the latest insights for podcasts, research institutes and conferences. She has also travelled around the world visiting the in-cosmetics Group events, developing a deep understanding of all things cosmetics.

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