Breakthrough beauty: revolutionary ingredients shortlisted for Innovation Zone New Ingredient Awards

Breakthrough beauty: revolutionary ingredients shortlisted for Innovation Zone New Ingredient Awards

Ten of the cosmetic industry’s most exciting new ingredients have been selected as finalists in the in-cosmetics Asia Best Ingredient Awards. The shortlist includes an intelligent collagen booster, a natural film-forming biopolymer, a low-cost preservative blend and a next generation solubilizer.

The ingredients, featured in the exhibition’s Innovation Zone, have been nominated across two categories – Active and Functional. The awards reward the nominated companies for their ability to combine scientific excellence with formulation benefits for manufacturers and efficacy for consumers when compared to other products currently available on the market.

They were selected by a panel of industry experts including Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science; Barbara Olioso, Founder of The Green Chemist Consultancy and a professional “green” chemist with 18 years’ experience in the development of natural and organic cosmetics; Jack Ferguson, Managing Director of Skinnovation Ltd and an independent consultant to the cosmetics industry and Muriel Pujos, Director of Scientific Coordination Multi Brands at Coty.

The five finalists in the Active Ingredients category are:


AQUATIDE was developed from a resveratrol-like structure with amino acids of Skin NMF, using the concept of a ‘skincare vaccine’ for epigenetic stress management. The property is a very simple 3-in-1 treatment comprising maintenance, recycling and revitalization. Recommended applications are use as a morning toner, refreshing night mask or cellular booster essence to aid skin recovery from epigenetic bio-stress.

CobioDefender EMR by COBIOSA

CobioDefender EMR is a concentrated solution of highly purified glycogen from marine origin. The ingredient is proven to protect and prevent skin damage (ex-vivo/in-vitro) after EMR and blue light exposition, neutralising oxidative stress, reducing apoptotic cells and protecting against structural changes. It also addresses cellular epigenetic rejuvenation by regulating microRNA expression and senescence epigenetic modifications (in-vitro). It is the first active ingredient focused on reducing biological skin disorders resulting from the impact of digital premature ageing.

Defenscalp™ by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Extracted from fireweed and titrated in oenothein B polyphenols, Defenscalp™ is a smart multifunctional plant-derived ingredient designed to naturally and gently regulate the malassezia responsible for dandruff, while preserving the scalp’s microbiota ecosystem. As a scalp-friendly alternative to irritating anti-dandruff ingredients, Defenscalp™ provides outstanding clinical results on sebo-regulation and anti-dandruff action from the first use, without side effects. Defenscalp™ normalises sebum, reinforces corneocyte cohesion and modulates the scalp immuno-inflammatory defence system to maintain healthy, flake free, non-oily looking scalp and hair.


LIFTONIN®-XPERT is an intelligent collagen booster from the leaf sap of the South African medical plant Bulbine frutescens. Thanks to the active substances knipholone and acetylated polymannose, LIFTONIN®-XPERT recalibrates the equilibrium between decomposition and reconstruction of dermal structures, thus providing the skin with an extra portion of high quality collagen. The natural collagen booster paves the way for exciting applications such as wrinkle fillers, stretch-mark products, nail care and tattoo aftercare.


FILMEXEL® is a natural film-forming biopolymer providing a biomimetic network of cutaneous tissue at the surface of the skin. The film is resistant, flexible and non-occlusive and it perfectly shapes the skin, thereby protecting it from harmful exogenous agents. Its smoothing and anti-wrinkle effects are proven in various formulas, at different doses and on Caucasian and Asian volunteers – it also makes foundation last longer. FILMEXEL® is universal for facial and body care, and makeup.

Finalists in the Functional Ingredients category are:

ElfaMoist AC by Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry

ElfaMoist™ AC humectant is an effective new active that easily penetrates inside the skin (stratum corneum) and delivers and increases hydration, keeping skin moisturised for over 30 hours. Equally important, it performs exceptionally without disrupting the skin barrier, making it safe and gentle. ElfaMoist™ AC Humectant is patent pending.

 Cosphagard® Pretec by Cosphatec GmbH

Cosphagard® Pretec is a novel low cost preservative blend that can be used to replace controversially discussed preservatives like parabens. The synergistic effects of the ingredients give this blend a strong efficiency against bacteria, yeasts and moulds in low concentrations and can be used in all kinds of cosmetic formulations including baby care and products for sensitive skin.

TEGO® Solve 55 by Evonik Personal Care

TEGO® Solve 55, is a new generation solubilizer for natural cosmetics. PEG- and preservative-free, it is produced fully based on renewable raw materials, is readily biodegradable and provides much higher solubilizing efficacy – up to approximately 50% less solubilizer usage could be achieved in the formulation. It is cold-processable without causing high foaming during processing, hence it helps to reduce energy consumption in the personal care industry. Additionally, TEGO Solve 55 is a multi-functional ingredient providing mitigating and moisturising benefits.

C145 by Oleon

C145 is a unique combination of emulsifiers providing a basic solution in formulating a single step multiple emulsion. Products formulated using C145 will take the consumer on a journey from experiencing a light feeling to the after feel protective layer. This innovative ingredient has a wide-ranging application from skincare to high-end colour cosmetics.


EMOGREEN™ is a revolutionary range of bio-based emollients connected to your emotions. These crystal clear, high purity, extra fluid biodegradable oils are from a traceable vegetable origin. Providing a unique refreshing and gliding sensation, EMOGREEN™ wraps skin in a soft and powdery veil. Thanks to its inert profile, EMOGREEN™ is suitable for versatile applications including skincare, haircare, make-up, suncare and colour cosmetics, among others.

Gold, Silver and Bronze winners in each category will be announced at a ceremony taking place on Wednesday 9th November from 2-3pm at the Innovation Zone at in-cosmetics Asia, Bangkok.

Visit for further information and to register online to gain free entry to visit the event.


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More information about in-cosmetics Asia:

in-cosmetics Asia brings together more than 400 global suppliers of ingredients, fragrances, lab equipment, testing and regulatory solutions with 7,500 cosmetic manufacturers and distributors from across the Asia Pacific region. in-cosmetics Asia promotes innovation in personal care ingredients and technologies, providing quality education and consumer insights for formulators, R&D and regulatory professionals. Showcasing local and global industry trends, in-cosmetics Asia offers the most cost-effective business and networking opportunities for the personal care ingredients community in the dynamic APAC markets.

More information about Reed Exhibitions:

Reed Exhibitions is the world’s leading organiser of exhibitions and conferences. Reed brings together over 90,000 suppliers and more than 5.5 million buyers from around the world every year generating billions of dollars in business. Today Reed events are held in 38 countries throughout the Americas, Europe, the Middle East and Asia Pacific, and organised by 33 fully staffed offices.

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