Marketing Trends Presentations Review 2014

This year’s marketing trends presentations, sponsored by Brazilian ingredient supplier, Chemyunion, was the biggest ever, featuring 25 sessions over three days. In anticipation of in-cosmetics’ first Brazil show in September 2014, the Brazil Country Focus included the latest marketing trends data and a Round Table discussion on the regulatory environment for Brazilian cosmetics. The programme also included presentations on the latest global beauty trends with insights, analysis, round table discussions on industry issues and future predictions from leading research agencies and consultancies.

Tuesday 1st April

Innovation: what can you get from a Brazilian partner?

Speaker: Sergio Goncalves, Commercial Manager, Chemyunion

“Open innovation” is important to Chemyunion which has partnerships with companies and Brazilian universities to bring in expertise they lack to feed their innovation pipeline. “You can develop a great product, but there may be no market for it, so we go for the complete picture in order to understand the value of the brands,” stated Goncalves. Chemyunion develops raw materials, new technologies and tailor-made products and aligns them with sustainability and green technology.

German market for green cosmetics

Speaker: Amarjit Sahota, President, Organic Monitor

Germany has a long tradition in selling “green” cosmetics, defined as natural, organic and fairtrade in organic food shops, but more recently in supermarkets and concept stores. “Concept stores are relatively new but have grown to €840m in 2012,” confirmed Amarijt Sahota, president, Organic Monitor. Growth in green cosmetics has not been without its challenges, not least certification. Some 80% of natural and organic companies in Germany are certified. “However, after 3-4 years, adoption rates of Natrue and Cosmos are low. Germany’s companies believe that having one certification {ie BDiH}is not enough and want two or three. It is hard to prevent proliferation and consumer confusion.” Green cosmetics represent 6% of the total C&T market in Germany, but if it is to reach 10%, the category will need to increase in turnover by two thirds.

The multifaceted evolution of global beauty

Speaker: Irina Barbalova, Head of Global Beauty and Personal Care Research, Euromonitor International

The global beauty industry was worth $454bn in 2013. Despite an additional $22.5bn in sales compared to 2012, growth has slowed in premium and flattened off in mass. By region, the mature markets of North America and Europe have lagged behind South America which grew by 12%, and Africa, up 13%. “China and Brazil have seen much reduced expenditure, while India, Indonesia and Venezuela saw fast growth,” pointed out Barbalova.

Most product categories had a weaker performance in 2013, although there were some highlights. Deodorants witnessed the fastest growth, fueled by value added innovation in Latin America; skincare is the powerhouse in beauty, putting on an extra $5bn globally in moisturisers and anti-agers; nail polish increased by more than 10%, with significant growth in Brazil, which Euromonitor predicts will be the number one market of nail polish by 2018. Despite the mass sector’s domination, Euromonitor sees strong premium potential: China is predicted to be number one in premium skincare in 2018.

Key themes for beauty in 2014 include the ubiquitous multi-benefit claims, the crossover of fashion into beauty {eg Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Tom Ford}, “selfie” beauty, driving by young people sharing their lives online, new product experiences, such as texture, formulation and packaging and “luxury for all”, a continuation of the trend for at-home beauty.

Brazil: A powerhouse for cosmetics & toiletries

Speaker: Daniel Oliveira, Market Intelligence Manager, ABIHPEC

Drawing on Euromonitor data, Oliveira showed that Brazil is the third largest cosmetics, toiletries and fragrance market worldwide and number one in fragrances and deodorants. It is number two in bath and shower, haircare, baby and child, men’s grooming, depilatories and suncare. The South East region of Brazil is where 80% of industries are concentrated. However, Brazil has been through difficult times since 2009, when total beauty sales declined, although they picked up in 2013, growing by 2.7%.

By category, haircare is the largest at 20.1%, followed by fragrances at 16% and deodorants taking 11%. Men’s grooming is a developed category, worth 10.4% of total sales. “There is no stigma attached to using men’s products,” explained Oliveira.
Most beauty products are in the mass sector and Brazil is the second largest mass market worldwide. By contrast, its premium business is not as developed, although there is strong potential from consumers looking for multiple product claims. Oliveira summed by saying that Brazil is a big consumer country and a big opportunity for international companies.

Forever Young: the vibrant non-surgical anti-ageing market

Speaker: Ewa Grigar, senior analyst, consumer products, Kline & Company

According to Kline, anti-ageing is the main growth engine for the entire global personal care industry in 2013, estimated at $350bn globally at retail. It is the most popular targeted skin condition, accounting for 30% of take-home facial skincare sales. In anti-ageing professional skincare, China is the best performing market. Beauty devices are a strong category, up nearly 20% in sales year on year in 2013 to reach $1.4bn at manufacturer prices. Dr Grigar highlighted the importance of aesthetic services and related products in the US, worth £20bn and driven by injectables, up 20% annually. “Consumers are more knowledge and proactive in using the internet as a point of reference for information. They read labels and look at benefits and it’s why we see a huge growth in sun protection and anti-ageing benefits. There is a holistic approach to anti-ageing, which is not just creams, but exercising, diet and supplements,” explained Dr Grigar.

Anti-ageing trends from other regions are becoming more global. From Asia come skin whitening, dark spot removers for the body and facial masks. Oil-based products from nuts indigenous to various areas, such as Morocoo, are becoming very popular throughout the world.

Round table: Innovation in skincare technology

Moderator: Dr Barbara Brockway, president, Society of Cosmetic Scientists
Panellists: Jack Ferguson, director/owner, Skinnovation; Steve Barton, founder, Skin Thinking; Peter Luebke, head of personal care, Cambridge Consultants; Janet Tarasofsky, head of product development, Sarah Chapman Skinesis.

“The cosmetics industry is renown for being early adopters,” maintained Dr Brockway as way of introduction and gave examples of 3-D printers, nanotechnology and dispersion technology as being key for future development. Steve Barton talked about how innovation is at the heart of translating technology into great products for the consumer. “There are a lot of things we ignore that are sources of innovation and there are multiple routes,” he maintained. “It’s about joining the dots and taking science as we know it and making sense of it.”

Jack Ferguson discussed the importance of UVA protection in skincare, which he pointed out is not being used properly. “UVA rays go deeper, affect the collagen and are ageing, yet the only talk in skincare is of SPFs. It’s very important to protect against longer-term damage, but there is no real strategy for UVA protection worldwide”, he stated.

Peter Luebcke discussed his company’s work with devices and how they are changing the way consumers use skincare. “There are apps which tell you which SPF you should be using, and evaluate your skin condition, all from your mobile phone.” New technology in diagnostics will bring more possibilities for skincare brands at point of sale.

Janet Tarasofsky works from a brand and consumer perspective and showed the importance of identifying the end user, not just in terms of simple demographics but lifestyle. For example, understanding the needs of a busy working mother who has skin irritation, sensitivity or adult acne, or an older woman who maybe doesn’t want to look younger, but more vibrant, can lead to more relevant targeted product solutions.

Global scent trends: the use of fragrance on cosmetics

Speaker: Emmanuelle Moeglin, Fragrances & Personal Care Analyst, Mintel

Scent is the primary purchase driver in personal care products, according to Mintel, whose research shows that global consumers want to smell before they purchase. For example, 60% of French soap users report that a fragrance they like is an important feature when choosing shower/bath products, while 60% of German deodorant wearers also rate fragrance as an important feature. Being able to check the fragrance before purchasing is key, although this is not always possible for products such as deodorant and bodyspray. Mintel found that household fragrance is also important, with high percentages of consumers wanting to evaluate before purchasing.

Mintel’s olfactory trends rate floral, fantasy, fruity, gourmand and fresh & clean as the top fragrances used in cosmetics. “Fantasy includes all fragrances that are fine-fragrance inspired,” explained Moeglin, revealing that 25.9% of deo launches were fantasy fragrances. She gave examples of innovation and new formats, including cross-category trends eg Frederic Malle Perfume Gun fine fragrance room sprays and Guerlain’s Eau de Lit, Eau de Lingerie and Eau de Cashmere fragrance for fragrancing bed linen and clothes. Other new developments include dryer sheets and laundry detergents that smell the same as a favourite fragrance.

BB, CC, DD: the alphabet craze in beauty product innovation

Speaker: Jamie Mills, associate analyst, Datamonitor

Described by Jamie Mills as the “Swiss army knife” all-in-one solution, alphabet creams are demonstrating strong demand for multi-functional products that help to minimize the number of products used in a skincare regime. The trends started with BB creams, which were first developed in Germany in the 1960s, but didn’t fully take off in Western markets until 2010 when the first Asian products were introduced. Now, most of the major cosmetic brands include a BB or a CC product in their portfolio. Drawing on Datamonitor’s TrendSights Framework, Mills identified four relevant mega trends that apply to alphabet creams as: efficient & effective, bargain hunting, simplicity and on-the-go. “Consumers look for products that give bang for their buck,” suggested Mills. “They are more concerned about price point and more concerned about value for money than performance.” She concluded that alphabet creams are more than a passing fad. “I believe it will be a long-standing trend that impacts on the modern consumer landscape.”

2015-16 Key beauty trends, lifestyles and creative directions

Speaker: Dominique Assenat, head of color & beauty department, Perclers; Lucille Gauthier, beauty designer, Perclers

Perclers maintain there are two key directions where trends are heading, which are empathy and emancipation. Empathy manifests itself as the quest for inner beauty and natural selection which challenges the airbrushed world we live in. Emancipation is about freeing oneself from the constraints of everyday life. In Asia this is particularly strong where women are eschewing traditional behaviour in favour of liberty and adopting a more western way of life. Perclers explored three creative concepts from these two trends: natural-being {an affinity for natural colour palettes and a desire for different textures, simplicity and minimum waste}; wild-osmosis {encapsulated by young women, activists and eco-warriors which popularise mineral shimmers, metallics, earthy colours and algae-inspired textures and colours} and full power {inspired by the future with flamboyant colours, such as fuchsia, orange and aqua as well as sharp graphics}.

Wednesday 2nd April

The Brazilian Consumer: macroeconomics and habits

Speaker: Sergio Goncalves, commercial manager, Chemyunion

Brazilian consumers need to be treated differently to the rest of the world, given the variety of racial types, which include mixed white, black and Latinos. Hair is the number one beauty priority for women who wash their hair daily and use shampoo, conditioner, combing cream and treatment products. “International brands come in with their products, but they have to adjust to the requirements of Brazilian women,” explained Goncalves. For example, there is a variety of hair types, including naturally straight, naturally curly, chemical straight, coloured, lightly waved and heavily waved. The majority want moisturisation, but also shine, less frizz, low volume, soft touch, well defined curls that are easy to comb.

Specialty actives: all action in Brazil and China and reanimating the European and US markets

Speaker: Nikola Matic, industry manager, chemicals & materials, Kline & Company

Global sales of personal care are estimated at between $350-400bn at retail level with growth of 4-5% annually. Anti-ageing products are driving global growth and it is an area where consumers are keen to see innovation in order to look and feel good. Anti-ageing claims in make-up and a growing interest from men in anti-ageing products are among the factors driving the market.

According to Kline, the global market for specialty ingredients is valued at $6.5bn with Europe and the US the leading consuming regions, followed by China. The European active ingredients market is the largest in the world, worth over $400m. Botanical actives are strongest in both the European and US markets. In Brazil, proteins and peptides are the leading consumed actives with haircare driving consumption of active ingredients. “In China, biotechnology actives are the most frequently consumed, but a market for specialty actives is emerging as local prestige brands are developed,” commented Matic. China is where Kline expects to see the most opportunities during the next five years.

Spotlight on Brazil –trends, drivers, innovation.

Speaker: Chris Lindsley, global skincare analyst, Mintel

“Helped by the economic market, Brazil is an attractive place for brands,” maintained Chris Lindsley. Currently, Brazilian skincare launches lack sophistication with more emphasis on basic functional benefits. “Anti-ageing claims don’t appear in the top ten claims in Brazil, which shows an opportunity for development.” Many of the launches in Brazil are coming from Western brands, such as L’Oreal, Beiersdorf and Avon. Some are developing lines especially for the Brazilian market, such as L’Occitane au Brésil, whose concept and formulation was built around Brazil. “Consumers like products based on their own country,” affirmed Lindsley.

Mintel has witnessed a lot of launch activity in haircare, where consumers are looking for a more in-depth haircare regime. Conditioners are used by 75% of Brazilians and 39% use a leave-in product. The most common haircare claims are moisturisation/hydration {35%} and hair repair {16%}. Mintel is also seeing more launches specifying “salt-free”, reflecting Brazilian consumers’ outdoor and beach lifestyle. Lindsley also discussed the importance of celebrity endorsements and customised products which are popular with young Brazilians and especially products for use on the beach, in the sea and at work.

Revitalising haircare: exploring future growth prospects

Speaker: Oru Mohiuddin, senior analyst, beauty and personal care, Euromonitor International

Haircare is the second largest beauty category globally and has experienced a great deal of innovation. “Haircare has evolved from a staple to sophisticated, high quality products,” commented Mohiuddin. The category has become performance-driven as consumers look for value added products with influences from skincare, colour cosmetics, fragrance and oral care. Products are becoming more targeted with room for customisation from new formats, such as serums and hair oils.

Historically, haircare lagged behind the total market, but the gap is now narrowing, according to Euromonitor’s latest data for 2013. Conditioners posted the biggest growth, up 38%, with strong performances from hair oils and leave-in conditioners and colourants up 32% due to innovation in products offering an at-home salon experience and less messy formulations. Styling agents have only increased by 5%, reflecting the fashion trend for a light, natural look and new lightweight formulations.

Growth by region is concentrated in Eastern and emerging markets, especially Asia Pacific {+5.3%}, Africa {+13.5%} and Latin America {+9.4%}. The top growth markets in 2013 for haircare were Brazil, China, India, Argentina and Iran; however the US is the largest market globally. Mohiuddin focused on Brazil, which has experienced 20% of global haircare growth coming mainly from local players, such as Phitoteraphia Biofitogenia,  Niely do Brasil and Natura; by contrast the multinationals Unilever, L’Oreal and Procter & Gamble are feeling the pressure.

Suncare innovation trends

Speaker: Ramaa Chipalkatti, senior analyst, Datamonitor

According to Datamonitor, suncare is worth $8.7bn and accounts for 10% of the global skincare market. “Suncare is becoming harder to define as UV protection is offered in many different categories,” stated Chipalkatti, who cited Datamonitor Consumer Survey 2014 research showing that a significant percentage of consumers are highly concerned about sun damage. Some 62% of skincare shoppers prioritise sun protection benefits as essential or high priority. Chilpalkatti gave examples of beauty/grooming products with added sun protection, such as BB and CC creams, bodycare products and haircare products. “The visual culture is driving all-year demand for suncare,” she surmised. Successful new innovation includes oils as a key ingredient, novel application methods, such as Neutrogena Wet Skin sunblock spray and tailored products such as Glitter Tots SPF 30+ Sparkle & Screen.

The future of suncare includes ingestible products, such as UV protection harmonised water technology that neutralizes UV radiation and limits absorption. “The nutricosmetic concept is gaining traction in skincare and cosmetics,” commented Chipalkatti. In addition, there are opportunities for “smart” suncare products, such as high-tech wearable trackers and skin tone based products that are a bridge between suncare, skincare and make-up.

Ingredients made in Brazil: Challenges & opportunities
Moderated by ABIHPEC with particiation from Beraca, Amarjit Sahota, president, Organic Monitor and Daniel Sabata, Beraca.

According to ABIHPEC, skincare in Brazil will be one of the biggest growth areas in the world. Amarjit Sahota, noted the huge domestic market for skincare ingredients and asked when Brazil will become one of the largest suppliers worldwide. There is huge potential for biodiversity and changing consumer and economic habits are drivers for growth. There are a lot of indigenous oils grown in Brazil, something P&G and Clarins are exploiting in the creation of cosmetic products. A number of multi-nationals are setting up R&D capabilities in Brazil to tap into Brazilian ingredients. Daniel Sabata commented: “But most Brazilian companies don’t have the capabilities to export nor have the supply chains. It’s a big concern.”

Sahota also expressed concern for the lack of organic standards in Brazil. “There is one for organic cosmetics but no-one formulates to it. Brazil wants to project its indigenous culture but is so tightly regulated that it can’t implement it. This stifles innovation.” Sabata agreed, but added that organic is not such a big issue in Brazil. “Consumers want more natural products but they are not as mature in terms of what they want.”

10 years of premium beauty: learning the lessons for the future

Speaker: Imogen Matthews, Founder, IM Associates

The UK premium beauty market has been largely recession proof, with above average growth of +6% for 2013 vs 2012. Premium make-up has been the fastest-growing, sector, up 11% and living up to its “lipstick effect” image, whereby consumers buy small affordable luxuries when times are tough. “However, the lipstick effect may not last,” warned Matthews, suggesting that companies must understand past trends in order to plan for future growth. With so many new launches across all sectors of premium beauty, she talked about the opportunity to demystify and reduce clutter. “New product development must focus on simple ranges and simpler concepts that don’t emphasise the science but the benefits.” Opportunities for growth include targeting women over 50 who are largely ignored by beauty brands and developing more customised or personalised products that more closely reflect customer needs.

2015+ trends, colours and 3D printable applications

Speaker: Antoinette van den Berg, founder, Future-Touch

Current beauty ideals which focus on youth and perfection may change in the future, according to Antoinette van den Berg. “In Rubens’ day, the models were fat and had wrinkles and were considered beautiful. The beauty ideal is changing and it’s important to realise this,” she claimed, adding: “As developers, we have to realise that things can change even when we think it’s impossible.” Her company always tries to use existing machinery for new products and is prepared to work with new innovations, such as 3D printing. She believes it will become a reality in cosmetics packaging and showed prototypes of the kind of things that could be done. Her presentation also included future colour trends for cosmetics, with new and original ideas and effects, such as Cold Gold, a mix of gold and blue highlights, and Transparent Brilliance, a nail varnish gloss with a sophisticated shine. Challenging the status quo, she asked: “Why do nail polish brands use the same bottles for different shades? Why not express the colour in the bottle or cap using 3D print?”

Round table: anti-ageing joins the youth club: consumer-targeted cosmetics get younger and younger

Moderators: Simon Pitman, Senior Editor, Cosmetics Design and Andrew McDougall, Deputy Editor, Cosmetics Design
Panelists: Antoinette van den Berg, Founder Future-Touch, Imogen Matthews, Founder, IM Associates, Alice Hart-Davis, Creator of Good Things skincare,

Industry experts discussed their views on whether is it right to market anti-ageing products to younger people. Alice Hart-Davis believes that young women in their 20s and 30s should be focusing on achieving healthy skin. “There’s a pressure at 23 to look a certain way and that is wrong” she stated. Antoinette van den Berg, founder Future-Touch, observed how all young models look the same. “Skincare should not be about anti-ageing at this age.” In her opinion, natural products with an eco and sustainable positioning will be become more important with younger people in the future. Imogen Matthews, founder Imogen Matthews Associates, highlighted the role of bloggers to make peer-to-peer recommendations which do not feature anti-ageing claims. “In the future, UVA protection will be far more important for young women wanting to protect against future damage of the skin.”

Thursday 3rd April

Innovation: what can you get from a Brazilian partner?

Speaker: Sergio Goncalves, commercial manager, Chemyunion

Chemyunion is an innovation company that practises Open Innovation partnerships with Unesp, Unicamp, USR and Research Centres. In addition, it carries out safety assessments, efficacy and claims support and is aligned with sustainability and green technology. “Think of ourselves as an innovation company that also offers services in the areas of safety and efficacy,” stated Goncalves.

Innovative Beauty from Japan, Korea and China

Speaker: Florence Bernardin, General Manager, Information & Inspiration

The beauty ideal in South East Asia is for perfect, spotless skin that is as translucent as white porcelain or a peeled boiled egg. “In Japan, women are educated on prevention and to have a skincare routine and this is changing very quickly. In China, consumers are very reactive and request immediate results. Korea is a booming market with a lot of innovation,” explained Florence Bernardin, who identified a number of key trends that are driving growth and innovation in these markets. The top trend is Lack of Time. In China, the term ‘Shinagara cosme” has evolved, described as “cosmetics while doing something else”, such as driving a car, watching TV or when sleeping. Sleeping masks are a big trend, such as Korean brand La Neige, which is infused with moisture and can be put in the freezer to turn to frozen jelly when the weather is hot. Paper masks can be left on the face doing their work while the user does something else, such as working on the computer.

The other main trends are: quest for wellbeing, positive ageing, new minimalism and optimism and generosity. Key highlights included the Asian attitude toward ageing which is seen as an accomplishment and is a different way of thinking to the West. Brands such as Shiseido have websites dedicated to older women over 55. However, the anti-ageing messages start from 25, as young women have a lot of stress and pollution in their lives and are not sleeping enough or exercising.

In terms of new products formats, mists are big and used as on-the-go moisturisers over make-up, as are oil formulations with 2 and 3 phase oils from everything from skincare to nailcare. Facial massage tools are very popular and are used to stimulate and lift the skin as well as for hair loss and scalp health. There are tools to apply eye balm, especially spoons which can be used cold or warm to apply product or to massage.

Open Innovation at Beiersdorf

Speaker: Andreas Clausen, Manager, Scouting & Technology Support, Beiersdorf

Open Innovation is at the heart of Beiersdorf strategy for success and has the power to create some exciting new products. Since 2010, Beiersdorf has moved towards strategic alliances and uses Open Innovation to obtain information from a variety of sources, including suppliers, universities, customers, employees and cross-industries. “By observing customer behaviour, Beiersdorf can identify how its products can improve beauty regimes. Then by working with partners it can develop products that respond to real consumer needs,” explained Andreas Clausen. Success stories from Open Innovation include Black and White Deodorant that responds to the need for deo that does not stain clothes, and Eucerin Magnolia. Beiersdorf was unable to source magnolia extract that matched its requirement, so through its Pearlfinder initiative, it was able to partner an Asian company that could supply what was needed.

Innovating from nature: rethinking business innovation models in the new regulatory environment

Speaker: Eduardo Escobedo, Director, Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform {RESP}
Panelists: Juliette Desloire, Co-Founder, Thelema Strategic Consulting
Michel Mane, President, Mane Americas
Pierre du Plessis, Lead Author of the African Union Guidelines of the Nagoya Protocol
Suhel Al-Janabi, Co-manager, ABS Capacity Development Initiative

Eduardo Escobedo discussed the changing regulatory landscape and how it will affect innovation in cosmetics. “There is a growing expectation from governments and communities for opportunities in benefit sharing…the processes can take years,” he stated. Michael Mane, president, Mane Americas, commented: “The nice thing about innovation from biodiversity is that you can start from scratch. We have to educate different stakeholders all the way to the consumer. This is the biggest challenge as we cannot be everywhere to control the different steps of the value chain, so rely on partners.” Pierre du Plessis, lead author of the African Union Guidelines of the Nagoya Protocol, remarked that there was a mistrust about how resources are handled when they have left the country, making it hard to track once they pass down the value chain. It was agreed that there is a need to shift from a voluntary to a regulatory framework, which should be achieved later in 2014.

How not to waste time and money on social media

Speaker: Richard Stacy, Social Media Consultant, Stacy Consulting

Richard Stacy began with statistics that showed that the majority of people who use Facebook are not getting any value from it. Using statistics from Socialbakers, he concluded that based on views, Facebook is a {good} way of engaging with just 0.12% of your audience. However, most companies and brands do not understand this and regard social media as a media platform as they might traditional ones such as press or TV. “The reality is that you end up pushing an enormous audience up a social media mountain and companies do it because they don’t understand what social media is,” he stated. He advised companies to concentrate on listening to conversations to find out what people like and don’t like about their brands/products; focus on content by providing answers for questions which are asked; communication to help do things better. His three top tools for effective social media are Netvibes {a listening tool set up on real time}, WordPress {information will be more visible than anything on a website} and Get Satisfaction {to create out-of-the-box customer service where they can give opinions and ask questions}.

Round table: Innovation vs status quo – is new always best?

Moderator: Angelika Meiss, Senior Editor, COSSMA Magazine
Panelists: Sarah Brown, Founder, Pai Skincare; Alice Hart-Davis, Creator of Good Things Skincare; Dr Andrea Sättler, Director, International R&D Skin/Body Care, Henkel Beauty Care

Discussing their approach to product development, the three brand experts agreed on the importance of innovating to remain commercially and environmentally competitive. Alice Hart-Davis has launched a mass beauty expert endorsed cleansing and care skincare range aimed at girls aged 15-25, which receives a lot of coverage, especially online and with bloggers. Dr Andrea Sättler explained that being a long established company, Henkel Beauty Care is committed to innovation for its brands, which include the recently launched Gliss Kur Ultimate Oil Elixir for dry hair and Dial Coconut Water for consumers looking for a healthy skin feel. Sarah Brown, founder Pai Skincare, produced her organic skincare range for sensitive/difficult skin after experiencing a bad skin allergy which landed her in hospital. Unusually, the range is formulated and manufactured in-house in London.

Angelika Meiss asked a series of questions to understand the importance of innovation in all aspects of the product development and marketing process. “We want to be more environmentally competitive and are achieving more with less, eg less energy, less waste water,” stated Dr Sättler. “By 2030 we aim to triple the value of our footprint.” Brown explained how hard it is to stand out on shelf, especially for a small brand. “Sometimes innovation can be something really small that makes a difference, such as including a cleansing cloth with our Gentle Hydrating Cleanser,” she said.
Hart-Davis maintained that when targeting young people it is important to keep to traditional formats that they are familiar with and keep innovation for ingredients, such as she has for her new products containing manuka honey.

Building data banks of skin characteristics by countries

Speaker: KynugGoo Lee, Manager, KCII-NCR {Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute}

KyngGoo Lee gave details of a consumer survey carried out by KCII-NCR into understanding how to recognise skin conditions, skincare habits and buying behaviour. The survey began in 2011 in Korea and China and has been extended to include Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia. Taiwan, Mongolia and Kazakhstan will be added in 2014. The following conditions were measured: hydration, sebum content, elasticity, skin pore size, skin brightness, skin pH, skin sensitivity, TEWL, wrinkles and hair loss. The survey was designed to provide a comparison by country, age and gender. The purpose was to discover “who is the consumer?” and is expected to help professionals create more targeted skincare products.

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