Marine algae are in general rich sources of inorganic and organic ingredients used in cosmetics, such as mineral salts, iodized compounds, microelements, proteins, carbohydrates, amino acids, organic acids and vitamins.
The mixture of red and brown algae, Hypnea Musciformis, Gelidiela Acerosa and Sargassum Filipendula, make a valuable marine active ingredient, formulated to achieve the maximum effect on the skin.
Special processing treatments supply the combination of polyelectrolyte biopolymers in such conditions that the original structure is preserved, meaning elevated biological activity can be maintained. In the process, sugars, proteins, vitamins, organic acids, mineral salts and microelements are extracted. These, if in low concentrations, act in synergic association with the biopolymers.
The ability to form a moisturizing film results from the combination of uronic acid biopolymers with fucose polymers, highly hygroscopic and with sulfated polyglucosides which associate well in terms of the proteins that are strongly able to form films.
The ionic interactions between the sulfated polyglucosides and the free radicals of the skin give this active ingredient high affinity for the skin and the ability to form a protective coating, one which has a wonderful sensory performance and is smooth, moisturizing, and firming to the skin.
Studies using volunteers aged 20-50, who washed selected patches of the forearm with ammonium thioglycolate (shown in figure 1) under controlled conditions, with this followed by erythema analysis, showed that adding just 0.8% of active ingredient with marine algae resulted in an 18% reduction in the erythema formed. This confirms the active ingredient’s soothing action.
Figure I – Erythema formed after washing with ammonium thioglycolate solution (ATi) and ammonium thioglicolate as an active ingredient with marine algae (SH), both at 5%.
The moisturizing network’s great affinity with the proteins found in hair helps manage the cuticles damaged by chemical and physical agents or by mechanical means, recovering the hair’s natural shine and balance. In addition to this, it also protects and alleviates the skin from cutaneous irritations caused by harsh chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulas. These include shaving creams, liquid soaps, bubble baths, skin bleaches, hair straightening products containing thioglicolate or guanidine carbonate (as shown in graph I), hair removal creams and many others. Its use in soaps protects the skin from the irritation caused by surface active agents (as shown in graph II), and also maintains the cutaneous barrier, avoiding the transepidermal water loss of sensitive skin.
Graph I – Reduction in Scalp Irritation Caused By Hair Straightening Products
Graph II – Protection against Irritation Caused by Surface Active Agents.