Latest ingredient round-up: From sourcing products from upcycled ingredients to Korea’s Erlin Cosmetics’ new anti-ageing collection

Latest ingredient round-up: From sourcing products from upcycled ingredients to Korea’s Erlin Cosmetics’ new anti-ageing collection
P2 Science launches Citropol HA

More and more ingredient companies are launching products sourced from upcycled ingredients as part of efforts to up the sustainability stakes for cosmetic products, research from Ecovia Intelligence finds.

It is specifically food byproducts that are most commonly being used to create these ingredients, and the market research company is predicting that the uptake of this trend will increase all the more on the back of supply chains disruption caused by COVID-19.

While tapping into the increasingly popular circular economy and shifting supply chains to more regional models, food side streams are already an important source of ingredients such as palm kernel, which has been used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for many years.

Ecovia experts say that with the collection of raw materials for many natural ingredients being impacted by the pandemic prevention measures and lockdowns, upcycled ingredients are being used to fill to meet the gap in demand.

The company notes that a raft of new ingredient launches from ingredient companies all over the world have included an increasingly varied range of food byproducts that are being used as the basis for a variety of applications.

In the past 12 months, French company Expanscience has developed an active eye care ingredient that is derived from discarded avocadoes, derived from a sustainable supply chain in Peru.

Givaudan has also launched its KoffeeUp ingredient, which is marketed as an alternative to argan oil but is developed from used coffee ground, sourced in partnership from Danish start-up coffee chain Kaffe Bueno.

Meanwhile, Rahn is upcycling pumpkin seeds to make its active ingredient, Reforcyl-Aion, a skincare ingredient that is being marketed on the strength of it forming an important part of the circular economy.

A brand new line of patented biorenewable, biodegradable medium viscosity fluids for cosmetics applications has hit the market. 

 US-based P2 Science says the ingredient line is an alternative to 100 centipoise dimethicone, which is commonly known as silicone cosmetics fluid, used to give a wide range of properties to hair and skincare products. 

The company says that commercial manufacturing of the line is already scheduled at its green chemistry manufacturing facility in Naugatuck, Connecticut. 

“The cosmetics sector is under pressure from many quarters and much of that relates to the environmental and health impacts of the products. Consumers are also becoming increasingly aware and concerned about the ingredients used in products they apply to their skin, hair, lips, and eyes everyday,” said Neil Burns, CEO of P2.

“Citropol HA is one more safe, bioderived, benign product from P2 that brings emollience, moisturizing, slip, shine, and cushion to skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. This new medium viscosity emollient is the latest addition to P2’s innovative green chemistry platform on which we continue to build a family of high-performance cosmetic ingredients.”

And finally, the research highlights Cargill Beauty’s new texturizer ingredient and emulsion stabiliser for skincare products, which is produced using extracted pectin from leftover lemon peel.

SH Cosmetics Group launches anti-ageing line with patented ingredient solution

Korean beauty aesthetics brand Erlin Cosmetics has introduced a new collection of luxury anti-ageing beauty products developed around its patented N-BTX microcap based system. 

The formulation technology uses acetyl hexapeptide and lecithin as active ingredients in a liposome-formed sphere that is said to be stabilised without the use of chemical modifications. 

The development team working on the brand, which is owned by the SH Cosmetics Group, say that the technology means that the formulation advancement maximises the timed release of active ingredients to enable deeper penetration into the skin. 

Currently the N-BTX line includes three products: a Serum, a Treatment Kid and a P+ Peeling Mask. 

“You might ask, why to encapsulate the ingredients, what is so important in time-release? Heat, moisture, pressure, or even friction, can trigger the release of the actives from the carrier system,” said SongHo Lee, CEO of SH Cosmetics Group. 

“A controlled release can offer more efficient release and delivery to the skin, also can help reduce irritation since it doesn’t overwhelm the skin. Moreover, it ensures that your skin is getting the 100% benefit of a product, without wasting even a drop of it.”

Azeco Cosmeceuticals highlights Azco99

Azeco Cosmeceuticals, one of the world’s leading suppliers of cosmetic grade azelaic acid is highlighting its latest offering Azco99 – an ingredient said to have multiple applications. 

The company, which was founded in 2014, is targeting a global launch of the ingredient, with a focus on the Asia Pacific region and Europe, as well as North and South America. 

Azelaic acid is defined as a cosmeceutical because it provides both cosmetics and pharmaceutical properties, providing a wide range of skin and hair care applications that have been backed up by clinical trials. 

The ingredient has been developed to ISO 9001: 2015, as well as being Halal, non-GMO, Cosmos approved, and is also compliant with vegan product requirements. 

As a confirmed naturally derived ingredient, Azco99 has a wide range of skin care applications that include skin lightening, acne treatment, control of rosacea, while it is also said to reduce redness and hyperpigmentation. 

As well as skincare application, it can also be used to stimulate hair growth, thanks to the fact that Azelaic acid serves to inhibit 5a reductase, which means it can be used as a substitute to minoxidil. 

Givaudan commits to natural at origin raw materials

Givaudan has launched its ‘Natural at Origin’ strategic approach to the responsible sourcing of natural materials and associated innovations in the country of origin. 

Company executives claim the initiative is an industry “one-of-a-kind’ stance that places it at source, alongside farmers and producers who are working to develop the naturals for perfumery while also having a positive impact on the planet. 

The initiative builds on the company’s pledge to the responsible and sustainable sourcing of natural ingredients, a pledge that stems back to 2008 when the company first strengthened its approach by committing to an exclusive network of global suppliers that support local communities and responsible sourcing initiatives. 

The company says that the work it has put into this area since 2008 means that currently it purchases approximately 80% of its natural ingredients through this network in the countries of origin, benefiting thousands of people and having a positive environmental impact. 

“We’re committed to supporting and working with farmers and their communities, and also innovating to enrich the perfumers’ palette in a responsible way,” said Givaudan’s President of Fragrance & Beauty, Maurizio Volpi.

“Our new ‘Naturals at Origin’ global strategy is delivering a superb palette of naturals, supporting our label Orpur, and increasing our capability to create nature-conscious fragrances in line with our Naturality Platform.”

Stay up to date with the latest ingredients round-ups from Simon Pitman, such as ‘the Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act to Sederma’s new menopausal skincare ingredient’.

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Simon Pitman established his career as a business journalist 25 years ago. He is the founding editor of the Cosmetics Design B2B business journals, which continue to be the leading beauty and personal care news source worldwide. For almost two decades Simon has been focused on what makes the industry tick, uncovering the latest technologies and product launches, as well as the newest trends to impact this fast paced industry. He is also a veteran of the in-cosmetics Group events, and having attended every one of the shows worldwide he has developed a deep knowledge about everything pertaining to cosmetics formulation.

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