Latest ingredient round-up – from scalp care to sustainable polymers and the microbiome

Latest ingredient round-up – from scalp care to sustainable polymers and the microbiome

Clariant launches scalp care ingredient

Scalp care is one of the fastest growing industry sub-categories and Clariant is latching on to this with the launch of EquiScalp, made from an extract of stem cell from the popular Fuji eating apple.

The development team claim that not only does the ingredient have enhanced active properties, but it is also more sustainable because only a very small amount of the fruit is required to initiate a culture that creates a large quantity of stem cells.

Clariant also claims that the ingredient’s efficacy is backed-up by clinical trials showing that after 28 days of treatment, squames decreased by more than 20%, leading to a visible improvement in the condition of the scalp.

Backing this up, 80% of the volunteers in the study reported that they felt their scalps were soothed by the treatment and they also stated feeling a decrease in scalp irritation.

While effectively reducing squames and irritation, the Clariant development team also claim that the ingredient preserves the scalp’s live bacterial population and diversity, avoiding imbalances that can lead to scalp issues.

Dupont research shows XIVIA Xylitol enhances microbiome

New research from Dupont has demonstrated how its XIVIA Xylitol ingredient has a positive effect on the skin’s microbiome by controlling the growth of skin microbes.

The Dupont Nutrition and Biosciences research team based in Finland wanted to determine whether ingredients, formed from sustainable wood-based sweetener and widely used in food and oral care formulation, could have a potential role in skin microbial growth.

The research discovered that Xylitol served to inhibit the growth of cultures of pathogenic S. aureus and C. acne strains linked to skin conditions, while the growth of the more beneficial commensal S. epidermis strain was not affected.

“Xylitol is utilized due to its hydrating properties within skincare products, and the research is showing interesting abilities for xylitol to protect the skin barrier. The study results demonstrated that xylitol also has benefits not only to control oral pathogen Streptococcus mutans, but also to controlling skin microbes,” said Dr. Heli Anglenius, senior scientist at Dupont.

“The results are interesting, as xylitol could benefit in situations where there is a dysbiosis in the skin microbiota and how to balance it.”

Nouryon unveils sustainable polymer for sunscreens

The Nouryon research team has developed a film-forming polymer that targets high protection sunscreen formulas, called SolAmaze Natural.

The ingredient has been created for a high level of compatibility with other sunscreen ingredients and can be used in a range of end products, including organic and mineral sunscreens, as well as SPF moisturisers, colour cosmetics and face and body lotions.

The Nouryon team said that the end goal in the development of the new ingredient was to give formulators more choice to develop natural-based sunscreens with a higher level of sustainability.

Nouryon has been building up its portfolio of natural-based formulation solutions and SolAmaze adds to another more recently launched natural ingredient, Amaze Nordic Barley, a natural=based starch aimed at hair styling formulations.

Sigma Oils launches African oils and fats

Netherlands-based Sigma has recently launched a new initiative called Sigma Oil Seeds, which is a start-up involving several entrepreneurs with the aim of sourcing oils and fats from Africa for cosmetic and beauty care formulations.

Sigma Oil Seeds is an importer, trader and producer with local partnerships throughout Africa, where it works closely with farmers, directly sourcing from the origin. It also has partnerships in Ghana and South Africa that take care of local souring.

According to the company, the raw materials are imported to Europe where they are further processed to guarantee a quality that meets organic certification standards.

“We are focusing on Africa and alternative raw materials, because we believe in the growth of the African continent and have been committed to being sustainable from the first day that Sigma was established,” said Timo van Dorland, Managing Director of Sigma Oil Seeds.

Want to hear more about ingredient launches? Watch the Ingredients in Action video, episode 2


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Simon Pitman established his career as a business journalist 25 years ago. He is the founding editor of the Cosmetics Design B2B business journals, which continue to be the leading beauty and personal care news source worldwide. For almost two decades Simon has been focused on what makes the industry tick, uncovering the latest technologies and product launches, as well as the newest trends to impact this fast paced industry. He is also a veteran of the in-cosmetics Group events, and having attended every one of the shows worldwide he has developed a deep knowledge about everything pertaining to cosmetics formulation.

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