Following the success of in-cosmetics Global’s first virtual conference in April, the world’s leading event for the beauty and personal care industry hosted another popular series of free webinars, this time revealing the industry’s hottest ingredient launches. More than 1,200 industry professionals tuned in live to watch the 30-minute online ingredient demos.
Inspired by the Innovation Zone at in-cosmetics Global, the first Ingredients in Action: Live Demo Showcase saw 14 leading suppliers display and discuss their latest ingredients during a presentation and Q&A. The full series is now available on-demand at: https://www.in-cosmetics.com/en/landing-pages/virtual-demos/
The latest launches on day one
The two-day virtual event kicked off with Margaux Caron, Global Beauty Analyst at Mintel, demonstrating the New Power of Nature. In her opening session, Caron detailed the hottest ingredients and finished end products driving three key trends: healthy nature, protective nature, and sustainable nature, also revealing that vegan claims in new beauty and personal care launches has grown globally by 44% year-on-year. Further to this, she outlined the opportunities to combine nature and science for more sustainable ingredient sourcing, while delivering nutrients that mirror the natural food source.
Following this session, Dr. Fred Zülli and Dr. Franziska Wandrey of Mibelle Group came together to educate attendees on the company’s Alpine Rose Active, designed to combat senescent or ‘zombie cells. When fibroblasts in the dermis age encounter too many harmful oxidative stresses – such as UV light and pollution – they become senescent. Here, the cells block intracellular pathways that promote their apoptosis, preventing their elimination and contributing to ageing and age-related conditions. Mibelle’s Alpine Rose Active is a purified extract of organic alpine rose leaves, which rejuvenates the skin and reduces the number of senescent fibroblasts – without damaging any healthy cells. Proven to reduce senescent cells by 64%, tests demonstrate it also increases skin elasticity by 16.1% and reduces redness by 8.4% after just 14 days.
In one of many exclusive product launches revealed at the in-cosmetics Global Ingredients in Action webinar series, Jordi Ayats, Marketing Manager at ALGAKTIV revealed the new ALGAKTIV BodySKN. Using upcycled waste cell wall polysaccharides from Arctic freshwater microalgae, ALGAKTIV BodySKN features a blend of actives that deliver holistic body care for firming, remodelling, and rebalancing stressed skin. Helping to restore normal skin homeostasis, it is also proven to improve skin elasticity, restore skin firmness, alleviate dry skin and itching and moistures the skin.
Elsewhere, Mathias Fleury, Global Catering Manager Biotech Active at Givaudan, provided participants with an insight into the latest pillar of the company’s biotech expertise: Green biotech. He revealed two new ingredient launches: K-phyto™ [SC] Camellia and K-phyto™ [PP] GHK. The former is a powerful active obtained from Camellia phytoplacenta cells culture, ideal for dry and sensitive scalp applications as it decreases scalp skin dead cells, improves scalp moisturisation and offers soothing qualities. The latter of the two new ingredients is ideal for use in facial toners, skincare for acne-prone skin and mattifying serums. Thanks to phytopeptide technology, it preserves antioxidant and anti-ageing activities, reducing facial sebum production in just two weeks.
Other highlights on the first day included Òscar Expósito CEO, CSO and Co-founder of Vytrus Biotech showing attendees a new biological deodorant that fits with the current clean beauty trend: Deobiome Noni, plus Dr. Florian Genrich, Senior Global Product Manager Skin Protection at Symrise, discussing the recently launched Crinipan® PMC green – an innovative and sustainable way to control dandruff. Closing proceedings on the first day saw Amparo García, Sales Technician at ADP Cosmetics, deliver a session on Beauty from the inside out.
Back for more on day two
Opening the second day of the series, Elise Romain, Technical Service Manager at Jungbunzlauer, showcased the company’s clean-label hair-styling curl balm with ERYLITE – a formulation that is free from polyquats and silicones whilst having a reduced list of ingredients. The proven properties of ERYLITE include moisturising and nourishing, controlling and reducing unwanted frizz, and improving hair manageability.
Immediately following this session, Maria J. Lopez, PhD, Marketing and Business Developer at Antalgenics, discussed different types of neurocosmetic products and introduced two new developments. The first, Calmapsin, is a novel capsaicinoid designed to address itchy scalps. It has a calming effect on the skin as in-vitro and in-vivo tests have a proven reduction on the activity of sensory neurons. The other latest development, Capsisilence, addresses a sensitive scalp. Similar to Calmapsin, it reduces the activity of sensory neurons giving a calming effect and reduces inflammation by decreasing the release of inflammatory molecules from mast cells.
In another webinar, Dr. Angela Roca, R&D Project Manager at Provital, discussed the development of a new active ingredient specifically for mature women over 60: Wonderage. Derived from the monk fruit, the new ingredient is inspired by the secret behind the longevity of Chinese monks and originates from Provital’s mission to express individual beauty by generating positive emotions. Roca discussed how Provital conducted the first scientific neurostudy that uses Artificial Intelligence (AI) to measure the emotional impact of using an active ingredient, with results showing that Wonderage impacts emotional wellbeing with 67% of users saying it made them feel more enthusiastic.
Lucyanna Barbosa Barros, Co-founder and CEO at Bicosome, revealed the latest Bicoalgae® lines – Bicoalgae XT and Bicoalgae ω3 – which tackle the stressful conditions of modern life that impact skin health. Highlighting skin inflammaging, she showed how Bicosome technology increases the efficacy of the microalgae extracts in the SC, epidermis, and dermis. It works by protecting microalgae bioactives via double encapsulation, allowing them to gently penetrate the skin and deliver actives where needed allowing an increase in the skin’s biological processes. The two new lines offer different improvements on the skin: Bicoalgae XT helping to decelerate the aging process, while Bicoalgae ω3 helping to resolve skin inflammaging.
Feifei Lin, Ph.D., Global Business Development Manager at Elkem Silicones, outlined the challenges which formulators face today including finding differentiation in a crowded marketplace, fulfilling consumer’s desire of the perceivable youthful look and feel, and delivering performance with natural ingredients. Presenting Elkem’s PURESIL Silicone Elastomer Gel series, she discussed how applying silicone elastomer gel to the skin acts as a sensory enhancer having a silky, smooth, powdery and cushiony feel, as well as giving a matte finish by having a wrinkle blurring effect. She noted how PURESIL is 5-10x smaller in particle size compared to other Elastomer gels, which is key to its exceptional performance.
Other highlights on the final day included Geoffrey Stijfs, Technical Business Developer from Sappi, showcasing Valida, a microfribillated cellulose, bio based stabilizer for cosmetic formulations with enhanced skin sensory experience, and Serene Yuan, Global Business Development Manager, Personal Care at Jiangsu JLand Biotech, presenting Biollagen – a type of yeast-fermented, 100% vegan collagen. Closing the virtual series was Dr Jun Wu, Ph.D. Chief Chemist at Sino Lion USA, who presented two amino acid based surfactants – Glutamate and Alaninate – as the best alternatives to sulfate and the ultimate solution to Dioxane issue present in SLES, especially at the time when New York State has just passed Dioxane Prohibition Bill.