How are cosmetic trends evolving?

How are cosmetic trends evolving?

Haircare applications and active ingredients rank highest among APAC professionals

28 October 2022: While the Asia Pacific (APAC) region has long been recognised for its leading position in the skincare market, new analysis by in-cosmetics Asia and Covalo, has revealed the categories gaining traction in the region. Among the surprising shifts, the haircare category was among the most searched-for, with 55% of users in the APAC region looking for relevant haircare ingredients. This compares to just 36% worldwide. It was followed by skincare (19%), make-up (15%) and suncare (3%).

Meanwhile, the most popular ingredient functions searched for by APAC personal care professionals saw active ingredients, emollients, plant extracts, emulsifiers and surfactants make the top five searches, followed by rheology modifiers, thickeners, antioxidants, pigments, and preservatives. This mirrored wider international trends, with the top five functions proving of equal importance to formulators across the globe.

The research also revealed that claims such as ‘plant-based’ and ‘natural’ make up over 90% of all searches by personal care professionals in the APAC region, at 50% and 41% respectively. This compares to just 45% globally. In addition, terms such as upcycled, bio, clean and biodegradable saw less than 1% of all searches. While the limitation on search terms may suggest that the international market is more mature and demanding in terms of sustainability, the popularity of plant-based ingredients is only set to continue to grow as consumers seek out more plant-based goods.

Haircare: transforming formulations with natural ingredients

Reflecting this growing interest in the haircare sector, research by Euromonitor revealed growth was anticipated over the next four years to 2026[i]. Heightened awareness among consumers looking to solve common hair problems, such as dandruff, hair loss and hair thinning continues to drive this growth, with many consumers looking for non-surgical procedures and at-home products to overcome these issues.

Among the notable trends highlighted by Euromonitor, no-rinse products are gaining popularity in China, while in India there is an increased demand for ayurvedic and natural haircare products, with natural ingredients such as sandalwood, jasmine, rose, aloe vera and almond being embraced by local brands.

As the second biggest segment represented at in-cosmetics Asia – the leading event in the Asia Pacific (APAC) region for personal care ingredients, more than 300 haircare products from over 120 exhibitors will be on display, helping the regional and global personal care community discover the most relevant, and innovative haircare ingredients. From colouring, conditioning, cleansing and styling, exhibitors including AVT Natural Products, ColorClay, Elementis, Essencia, Evonik, Lubrizol Life Science, Provital, Vantage Personal Care and more will help demonstrate how formulators can take their new product development to the next level.

For example, Henry Lamotte Oils will demonstrate its diverse range of oils suitable for haircare applications, including Avocado, Babassu, Brazilnut, Coconut, Grapeseed, Groundnut, Hemp, Jojoba, Meadowfoam, Sacha Inchi, Paradise Nut and Tamanu.

Using an extract derived from the shell of a black-lipped pearl oyster found in the Tahiti Sea, SEIWA KASEI will introduce attendees to its BLACK PEARL Extract which is designed to achieve conditioned and moisturised hair. Elsewhere, Lubrizol Life Science will demonstrate long-lasting colour protection with its Chromapol™ ColorPOP polymer. It helps maintain a true colour with vibrant tonality and intensity while providing conditioning and smoothness benefits to the hair fiber.

Haircare gets technical

In addition to an array of exciting new products on the show floor, a series of Technical Seminars will explore the latest ingredients to transform haircare formulations. Pornpan Singhapantu, Association TS&D Scientist, Dow will focus on bio-based ingredients for hair, including its CD-1 Polymer – a cationic dextran polysaccharide, biodegradable, 81% bio-based carbon content hair conditioning polymer that provides deposition aids with benefit agents such as silicones or natural oils. In another session, Alexandre Lapeyre, Global Head of Marketing & Business Development, Clariant, will explore the role of psychoemotional stress on hair and scalp well-being. He will explore how plants with strong anti-stress potential helps reduce the effects of psychoemotional stress on hair and stimulates vitality.

The latest innovations in haircare technology

The crème de la crème of the industry’s most pioneering new ingredients will be put on display at this year’s Innovation Zone, the starting point on many attendees’ must-see list. On the zone this year, out of the 75 on show, 10 new ingredients, launched over the past 8 months, will demonstrate the latest ingredients to transform haircare formulations. For example, Vytrus Biotech will highlight its active ingredient ELAYA RENOVA™ also described as the “hair tensegrist”. Made from plant stem cells, the natural active boosts hair tensegrity, an arquitecture-inspired concept which considers the scalp, hair follicle, and hair shaft as interconnected parts. It enables protein carbonylation prevention and protection from oxidative stress and high temperatures, boosting whole hair structure of CMC, proteins and delivering nutrients to hair fibres.

Also displayed in this year’s Innovation Zone is Clariant’s Prunizen™. The natural active ingredient is extracted from Prunella vulgaris – a herbaceous plant in the mint family Lamiaceae. Recognised for its apaptogenic properties, it addresses scalp and hair issue caused by psycho-emotional stressors, modulates cortisol production in the scalp and protects hair structure. In addition, it stimulates the production of oxytocin, providing a well-being effect on the scalp.

Laboratorios ARGENOL will highlight its acti-hair complex – an active ingredient containing a mixture of silver, magnesium, zinc, copper, and manganese with citric acid that is especially suited for dry, weak, dull, split, and brittle hair. While Galaxy Surfactants will demonstrate its Galseer Tresscon, a pioneering shampoo bar base designed to address the needs of the sustainability-conscious consumer. It is thought that by shifting to a solid surfactant system and replacing 1 million bottles of shampoo, Galseer Tresscon could save 50 metric tons of plastic from being disposed of[ii].

in-cosmetics Asia will take place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), Asia’s premier exhibition and convention centre from 1-3 November 2022. Registration is now open. For more information, please visit


[ii] Galaxy Internal Research

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