Abstracted from Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th Ed
By Charles Warren
SKINCARE ACTIVES IN FOUNDATIONS AND LIPSTICKS
The most common skin-active ingredients found in foundations and lipsticks are sunscreens. Numerous examples can be found where both types of products also claim sunscreen protection. Daily wear products now generally incorporate sunscreen filters against UVB and UVA. Very often, filters will be minerals such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, since organic filters tend to bind and react with oxide pigments. Another concern of organic filters is their absorption by pigments, which potentially leads to a decrease in SPF value. Mineral sunscreens have the advantage of dispersing well within the formulation and the application on the skin while behaving neutrally towards pigments. They are often used to achieve SPF values of 15–20 with concentrations of 10% w.
An additional skincare benefit brought to those products is moisturization.
Commonly, glycerol is used in those cases but it also brings a slight drop in viscosity of the bulk formula as well as an oilier appearance when applied onto a person. This oily perception can be countered in foundations by either a slight increase in pigment fillers or by use of a polymer to give the product a finer visual texture instead of a local shine. However, it is less of a problem in lipsticks, since shine is an expected attribute. Lipsticks use a number of additional ingredients for moisturization and conditioning from oils (macademia, olive, castor seed, lavender, shea butter) to more complex natural ingredients (silk complex).
Read more on colour cosmetics: an introduction to formulation and approaches for mascaras.
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AOPT, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkylmethacrylate copolymer; ADS, Vinyl Caprolac- tam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer; DC79, acrylates/acryl- amide copolymer; A4R-450, PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA copolymer.