in-cosmetics to shed light on the issue of regulation

Cathy Laporte, Exhibition Director, in-cosmetics in Paris

Red tape can be overwhelming in any line of work, and the cosmetic industry has had its share of legislative discussion of late. It is essential that companies stay on top of changing regulations in order to allow time to reformulate products in accordance with any new legislation.

Safety is the guiding principle in everything cosmetic companies do across their operations from the point of R&D until the products hit the shelves. Each product will have a thoroughly-checked formulation with instructions for use and disposal in all foreseeable conditions as well. This will be the result of years of product development. With bans often stemming from environmental health issues, it can pay for companies to be at the forefront of the movement, demonstrating to increasingly earth-friendly and aware consumers that they too care for our environment.

The big issue of late in the cosmetic industry has been microbeads, which have come under fire. Present in many beauty products, the crystals are too small to be filtered out at water treatment plants, and environmentalists claim that the beads end up in lakes and rivers. These 2mm bits of plastic could potentially end up back in our food chain as fish and other sea creatures may ingest them. This has led to as many as 18 American states considering a ban of microbeads, with some of the biggest cosmetics companies, such as Johnson & Johnson, vowing to end their use by 2017.

While some of the big names are looking at leading the pack by making changes ahead of any legislation, there are conflicting opinions among those in the industry as to whether the beads actually do what they claim with some experts labelling them useless. If the beads are too soft, then they won’t achieve their intended purpose of scrubbing off dead skin cells and leaving smoother skin. So for all the controversy, if the particles are not achieving their intended purpose, then why not lead the way and discontinue their inclusion in cosmetic products?

However, for all the negative press, some have spoken out in support of microbeads. Industry body the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association says it’s too early to blame microbeads for the impact on our environment. It says the presence of ‘micro size plastic’ in the water supply is caused by many factors, such as synthetic fabric being broken down in washing machines.

It is unlikely that we will get to the bottom of the issue for some time. But while microbeads are a hot topic and there are many opposing opinions at work in the industry, it can become confusing for companies to filter through the hearsay and stick to bone fide regulatory decisions, especially the smaller indie brand, which don’t have dedicated legal teams. With R&D professionals working on innovations that won’t hit the market for many years ahead, it is paramount to be on top of upcoming regulations – even when they might not be mandatory for years down the line – to make sure that your products of the future comply.

The next instalment of in-cosmetics in Paris aims to help company representatives in this field by addressing topical issues around regulation in the industry as part of its educational programme. One workshop at this year’s event will address fundamental changes for cosmetics and ingredients worldwide from east and south Asia and India to Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. Dr Gerald Renner of Cosmetics Europe has been directly involved in the preparative negotiations on the European advisory side for China. Other panellists will include Dr Annelie Struessmann, Steven L Hanft and Bhavika Patel of CONUSBAT, Ms. Alexandra Caterbow, Senior Coordinator Chemicals & Health (Munich), WESF (Women in Europe for a Common Future), and Neliza Junque of Regulatory Affairs Consulting, Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Regulation around suncare will also be discussed during a workshop at the show. Dubbed the ‘never-ending story’, regulation in this category frequently changes in response to the high media attention focused on the area. Visitors can attend a workshop on ‘what’s new in the suncare field’ to learn more about the latest trends and formulations. Moderated by Dr Karl Lintner of Kal’idees, the session features presenters including Dr Marc Pissavini of Coty, Dr Ian Tooley of Croda and industry advisor Dr Alain Meybeck

The event will showcase a host of experts from the cosmetic industry, who will cover other issues across a schedule of new seminars, workshops and debates. It will include free-to-attend marketing trends presentations across an array of controversial industry topics as well as insights and workshops hosted by experts to help guide the next generation of products to market.

in-cosmetics in Paris will run from 12-14 April 2016 at Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris. Register to attend for free at


For further press information, please contact Lesley Foottit or Astrid Dickinson at the in-cosmetics group press office on +44 (0) 207 240 2444, or email

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