The rise of skincare-infused makeup
The lines between skincare and colour cosmetics are blurring as hybrid products surge in popularity.
These are makeup items (foundations, tints, lip and cheek products, etc.) enriched with skincare ingredients and claims. Driven partly by pandemic-era shifts toward minimalist routines, the hybrid cosmetics category has grown significantly and is predicted to keep expanding as consumers demand more benefits from makeup.
Market reports show multifunctional cosmetics on a steady rise (the U.S. hybrid makeup market grew to $0.76B in 2022 and is projected to reach $1.3B by 2032.
When I started as a formulator, every ingredient supplier was coming up with BB, CC, and DD cream pigments, and colour matching was a huge technology released after a long-held patent. That is why I was really interested to dive deep and learn more about what changed in this era.
Several factors fuel this trend:
• Efficiency & Convenience: Busy consumers enjoy saving time with 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 solutions. A single product that hydrates, protects (e.g. SPF), and provides coverage simplifies routines.
• Consumer “Skin-first” Mindset: Many shoppers now prioritise skin health even when wearing makeup. They seek “makeup with benefits,” preferring formulas infused with actives. This reflects a broader “skinification” trend in beauty, where even traditionally purely cosmetic items now boast skincare properties.
• Post-COVID Aesthetics: With the rise of natural, dewy looks and prolonged mask-wearing, heavy full-coverage makeup gave way to lighter, “your-skin-but-better” products. Tinted moisturisers, skin tints, and serum foundations gained traction as people sought comfortable, breathable coverage that doubles as skin care.
Innovation or Marketing?
Does anyone remember BB, CC, and DD creams, or is it just me?
In the early 2010s, Western markets were introduced to BB creams (short for “Blemish Balm” or “Beauty Balm”), inspired by Asian beauty trends. These products were marketed as all-in-one solutions that combined moisturiser, primer, foundation, skincare ingredients, and SPF protection. The popularity of BB creams led to the emergence of CC creams (“Colour Correctors”) and even DD creams (“Dynamic Do-All” or “Daily Defence”).
The current wave of “makeup-as-skincare” products incorporates elements of true innovation, but it also recalls this history. Savvy marketers are taking advantage of the demand for multifunctional products. For instance, a basic tinted moisturizer can be rebranded as a “skin tint serum with XYZ complex.” Similarly, a lip balm can be marketed as a “lip treatment with antioxidants.”
This trend is particularly noticeable in SPF products, as it helps navigate regulatory challenges by shifting the product’s primary focus.
A noteworthy example is micellar cleansing water, which was once considered revolutionary but is essentially just a gentle surfactant cleanser—an idea that has been around for over a century.
This highlights how effective rebranding can create a “new” category from existing concepts.
New wave of hybrid products: Case studies
To understand how this trend is unfolding, let’s look at a few recent product examples that blur the makeup/skincare line:
• Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dewy Blush: Even the term “blush” is used loosely here – Glow Recipe markets it as a “sheer tinted serum” for cheeks and lips, explicitly “not a blush” in the traditional sense. This clean K-beauty-inspired brand, known for fruit-infused skincare, launched the Dewy Flush serum in 2025 as part of its move into colour cosmetics.
Other examples abound: mascaras with lash-conditioning serums, lipsticks infused with peptides and butter, primers with probiotic skincare complexes, and so on. Even mass brands are adding vitamins to foundations or UV protection to setting sprays. This “skincare makeup is the new normal,” especially in markets like China, where it’s reported to be not the exception but expected. The key for companies is to ensure these hybrids deliver on their promises, which brings us to the behind-the-scenes formulation challenges.
Conclusion: A hybrid future demands collaboration
Since minimalism and signification became a trend, this evolution of classic BB, CC and DD creams was inevitable. The growing hybrid skincare trend is more than a passing fad – it represents an evolution in how products are conceived and marketed.
For R&D scientists, the task is to push formulation boundaries to genuinely integrate activities without sacrificing product quality. This means investing in new ingredient technologies (encapsulation, novel emulsifiers, stable active derivatives) and rigorously testing that these hybrids live up to their claims. It’s about ensuring that a “serum foundation” hydrates like a serum or that a “lip balm with peptides” can improve lip smoothness over time, not just contain a barely detectable amount of peptide.
For R&D marketers, the challenge is to craft a compelling story that is truthful and resonates with the modern consumer. History has shown that clever marketing can launch a product into stardom (as seen with micellar water or BB creams), but today’s skintellectual consumers will quickly call out products that over-promise and under-deliver. Transparency about what a hybrid product can and cannot do is key.
In conclusion, the hybrid makeup trend is both an exciting innovation frontier and a savvy marketing evolution. R&D scientists and marketers in beauty should work hand in hand – much like the products themselves blend multiple functions – to ensure we deliver truly effective, delightful hybrids. If we strike the right balance, we’ll continue to earn consumer trust and drive the industry forward, one multi-tasking product at a time.
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