In the dynamic world of beauty and cosmetics, the journey from concept to launch goes beyond crafting an innovative product formula or creating a compelling brand identity.
Navigating the complex regulatory landscape is a crucial step that every beauty brand must master. Compliance, product development, and operational excellence are essential for both emerging and established brands aiming for success.
Highlighted in this article are key points noted in a fireside chat between Cherie Buziak from BeautyEdge LLC and Sara Bumby from First Impact New York.
The Importance of Regulation in Product Development
Regulatory compliance isn’t merely a backdrop to product development; it’s the very framework that supports it. While brands often focus on formulation, sensory experiences, claims, and market targeting, regulatory guidelines form the structure that enables these aspects to be implemented legally and ethically.
According to Sara Bumby from First Impact New York City, “Brands can run into serious trouble if they overlook regulatory details, even unintentionally.”
Top Priorities when considering Regulatory Compliance
1. Understanding Mocra Regulations: The Modernization of Cosmetic Regulation Act (Mocra) is pivotal in the U.S. beauty landscape. It governs product safety, reporting, and transparent labeling. Compliance ensures that a product is legally marketable, preventing potential recalls and legal implications.
1. Global Standards and Variations: For brands eyeing international expansion, it’s essential to understand that regulations differ widely. The European Union’s standards, for example, are more stringent than those in the U.S., with specific requirements on ingredients, safety assessments, and labeling. Per Bumby, aligning with these global standards requires a proactive approach to avoid disruptions when entering new markets.
2. Claims Substantiation: Whether a product promises “anti-ageing” benefits or “24-hour hydration,” each claim must be backed by scientific evidence. This is not only a regulatory requirement but also builds consumer trust.
Balancing Creativity and Compliance
Regulation is the key that connects all aspects of work in the beauty industry. It makes sure that the creativity involved in developing products—whether it’s a new formula or an eye-catching marketing claim—follows the rules and can be defended. Failing to comply with these regulations can lead to fines or harm a brand’s reputation, risks that no brand, big or small, can afford to take.
In a rapidly evolving industry where consumer expectations for transparency and efficacy continue to grow, regulatory compliance has become as essential as the products themselves. Brands must not only develop standout products but must do so within a complex matrix of compliance standards. Ensuring these standards are met requires expertise, foresight, and dedication.
Establishing Accountability and Accurate Claims in Beauty Marketing
In an era where transparency is not just valued but demanded, consumers expect truth in advertising and integrity in claims. When brands approach First Impact, one of Sara’s first priorities is an exhaustive review of their copy, website, and any existing brand book. This foundational step ensures that all language aligns with regulatory standards, facilitating seamless communication for PR teams, marketing agencies, and influencers.
The Responsibility of Compliance Across Platforms
A critical aspect is that brands are fully accountable for all claims made, whether through their packaging, digital platforms, or spokespersons. “Brands need to realize that they are responsible for what their influencers say in the market,” Bumby stressed. This level of responsibility extends beyond a brand’s internal team to third parties, which makes setting up clear, substantiated claims from the beginning paramount.
Brands must also be aware that today’s retail landscape, split between brick-and-mortar and e-commerce, operates on an equal playing field regarding compliance.
This uniformity underscores that regulations apply universally, regardless of where a product is sold or how it is marketed.
Clarifying Responsibility Between Brands and Manufacturers
One point that often confuses new beauty entrepreneurs is the extent of responsibility when working with contract or private label manufacturers. While manufacturers can provide data on active ingredients, they are not liable for the claims brands make based on that data. At the end of the day, it’s your responsibility as the brand to ensure stability testing, efficacy testing, and that all claims have the necessary supporting documentation.
For example, while a manufacturer might provide data showing that a formulation contains vitamin E and highlight its benefits, this alone is insufficient to make broad claims against that one ingredient. Brands must invest in testing the final formulation to substantiate claims accurately. This includes conducting consumer science tests or, when applicable, clinical studies, using tools and methodologies to validate claims rigorously.
Types of Claims and Documentation
Consumer Science Testing: This involves trials conducted with real users under controlled conditions to gather feedback and demonstrate how the product performs. These tests are crucial because they show results based on the final product, not just its individual components.
Clinical Studies: Using specialized equipment and scientific measurements, clinical studies provide quantitative data on a product’s performance. These studies can support claims like “reduces the appearance of fine lines by x% in two weeks,” provided they are backed by reliable results from an independent testing facility.
Building a Foundation of Trust
For new brands, navigating these regulatory demands can seem daunting. However, it is this diligence that lays the groundwork for credibility and trust in an increasingly skeptical market. Developing a brand that is both innovative and compliant requires commitment from day one.
By integrating regulatory expertise into their development process, brands can confidently launch products that meet not only creative aspirations but the rigorous standards of today’s regulatory environment.
For beauty brands looking to succeed in today’s market, regulatory compliance is non-negotiable. As Sara Bumby and Cherie Buziak discussed, understanding and adhering to these guidelines from the outset not only protects the brand legally but also builds trust with consumers. Brands must take responsibility for their claims, ensure they have proper documentation, and work closely with their contract manufacturers to substantiate product
efficacy.
This transparency and attention to regulation will set a brand apart in the
competitive beauty industry.
Sara Bumby President, Co-Founder at First Impact New York are dedicated to providing a wide range of services for the beauty industry, production management, product development, custom formulas, consulting, focus groups and much more.
Feeling inspired?
Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?