New ways to innovate suncare: Part 1

New ways to innovate suncare: Part 1

By Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief, Global Cosmetic Industry

The global suncare market was valued at $9.8 billion in 2017, according to the latest Euromonitor data(1). Beyond consumer awareness of the need for safe sun practices, other category drivers include unique formats, ingredients and emerging testing methodol­ogies.

Make it fun and easy

Sundaily, a brand of bite-sized gummies that reportedly helps to protect against sun damage, recently launched its funding campaign on crowdfunding site Indiegogo. The brand was co-developed by Dr. Emilia Javorsky, a physician and research scientist, and designed to strengthen the skin’s UV resistance from the inside out.

Sundaily leverages Polypodium leucotomos fern extract as its key active ingredient to resist UV damage. A 2015 dermatology study(2) on the extract’s safety and effects on counteracting UV radiation exposure concluded: “Polypodium leucotomos extract 240mg taken twice daily for 60 days was a safe and effective means for reducing the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.” A 2017 study(3) stated that “76% fewer new sunburned cells were found in patients who took polypodium.”

Other brands have leveraged the ingredient for supplement-format products, including Heliocare’s Sun Protection Pills, which reportedly improve the body’s tolerance to UV rays to prevent sun-damaged skin. Heliocare clearly warns that the tablets aid in preventing sun damage and do not replace sunscreen.

Hum Nutrition also includes the ingredient in its Turn Back Time Anti-Ageing Supplement, which the brand claims protects the skin against UV damage, stress and pollution.

Sundaily argues that its supplements can fill in the gaps in consumers’ lack of application or reapplication – as well as misappli­cation – of sun screen products. It also offers a solution for consumers concerned with finding natural or non-toxic products. In addition, by offering a chewable, pleasant-tasting supplement, Sundaily believes it can encourage consumers to incorporate UV protection into their daily lives—not just at the beach.

While the brand is in startup mode, its funding drive is already a hit. With about a month to go in its funding window (as of press time), Sundaily achieved $47,746 in funding against a $20,000 goal.

Make It Inclusive

The rise of inclusive beauty has often focused on makeup and hair care, but there are significant implications in the sun care sector as well. As consumers of every skin tone increasingly demand effective beauty products built around their needs, a new wave of innovation has hit the market.

For instance, Dr. Heather Woolery-Lloyd, a U.S. board-certified dermatol­ogist, created Specific Beauty to help people with “melanin-rich complexions” achieve flawless, even-toned skin.

The brand’s range includes a water-resistant SPF 30 Active Radiance Day Face Moisturizer, an oil-free, lightweight product that reportedly absorbs quickly. The broad-spectrum SPF 30 is intended to defend against UVB and UVA rays to prevent discoloration and dark spots. The formulation includes niacinamide, linoleic acid, and licorice and emblica extracts, as well as “light refracting, gold illuminizers” to “deliver radiance,” according to the brand.

“UnSun was made specifically for people of color representing the beige to dark chocolate tones of the spectrum,” founder Katonya Breaux has said. “The desire to protect our skin from the sun should not mean having to wear foundation in order to cover the white and gray film that’s present after application. UnSun was specially formulated with a mineral tint to address this concern.”

The brand’s hero product, the UnSun SPF 30 tinted mineral sunscreen contains shea butter, vitamin E, coconut oil and fruit extracts and is “tinted to blend in with multiple skin tones that range from fair to olive to the darkest of chocolate,” according to the company. UnSun has since expanded to include a Hand Cream SPF 15 and a collection of organic SPF 15 Lip Tints in shades that range from Slay to Nekkid to Rose Gold.

To find out more about how brands are bringing excitement to the sun care category, log on for part 2 next week.

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