Latest ingredients round-up: from microalgae oil to an active ingredient upcycled from white pine

Latest ingredients round-up: from microalgae oil to an active ingredient upcycled from white pine

Lubrizol launches hair care ingredient AlgaPūr

Lubrizol Life Science has launched a high-stability, high-oleic biobased microalgae oil that targets hair and scalp care. 

The Microalgae is sourced from chestnut tree sap, which combines both a high sustainability profile, with proven efficacy for a broad range of hair care benefits. 

Tapping into the age-old tradition of using oils to restore shine and health to hair, AlgaPūr is produced naturally through fermentation, is readily biodegradable, has a low carbon footprint, it’s developers claim. 

It is also rich in Omega 9 and comes in a highly stable, liquid-based form that serves to repair split ends, provide shine, reduce frizz and improves hair manageability. 

It also has significant scalp benefits, with the Lubrizol team claiming that it has an anti-ageing effect, as well a repair of photodamage and moisturisation. 

Further in vitro tests have shown it improves elastin synthesis and demonstrates a decrease in signs of UV-induced cell damage, while in vivo tests have shown an immediate moisturisation and improvement in the skin barrier function. 

“Throughout history, women have relied upon oils to protect and beautify their hair and scalps. AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil takes that beauty practice to the next level in delivering healthy hair fiber and scalp,” said Juliana Mancini, Global Hair Care Marketing Manager, LLS Beauty. 

Lucas Meyer launches Aurora Borẽaline

Derived from upcycling the bark of white pine, Aurora Borẽaline is a sustainable new active ingredient targeting an enhanced complexion. 

White pine is known as the ‘King of the Forest’ and derives its name from its search for light, which during the native arctic winters is defined by the aurora borealis Northern Lights. 

Derived as a wood processing byproduct, the extract protects and acts on three different parameters of the skin complexion, with the development team claiming it leads to a clearer, even skin tone for an optimal and luminous look. 

Thanks to its polyphenol composition, the ingredient is said to reduce melanin synthesis by cell-to-cell communication that serves to have a melanogenesis action, reducing skin inflammation and protecting proteins from carbonylation. 

This action on the skin’s composition serves to reduce redness and yellowness, improves skin translucency and ultimately leads to a more even and luminous skin tone. 

According to the development team, its trials have shown that the ingredient helps to even out skin tone in just 14 days while improving skin translucency and clarity and reducing age spots. 

Ashland launches ‘Dreamy Textures’ for skincare

Ashland is increasing its footprint in the natural formulation space with the launch of dreamy textures, a collection of four formulations that deliver leading textures from nature-derived ingredients. 

The development team decided to build on the trend for skincare products that de-stress and pamper from the safety of your home. 

In line with this, the team came up with a range of four evening/night masks that serve to relax and ease the individual into a better and more restful sleep, all developed using textures that are both reassuring and luxurious to the touch. 

The formulations feature natrosol and polysurf, which are both nature-derived rheology modifiers that offer thickening and improved emulsion stability while enabling innovative and playful textures. 

The four formulations include:
    • a beauty sleep gel cream, which is luxurious yet quick vanishing
    • a counting sheep butter-gel with a unique appearance that transforms into a smooth cream
    • a resetting lunar mask that resets the surface of the skin to leave it ultra-smooth
    • a dreamy renewing butter, which has a rich texture that melts on contact with the skin to leave a powdery, velvety finish

“COVID-19 has definitely impacted consumer beauty behaviours”, said Denise Costrini, global marketing manager, hair and skincare, Ashland. 

“Using a face mask hits the top of the home pampering activity list, along with home facials, deep conditioning hair and taking long baths. The novel dreamy textures formulation collection will engage consumers with fun, playful textures that have unique sensations,” Costrini said.

Sabinsa secures patent for Olepent peptide in Canada

Sabinsa has ramped up its offering to the Canada market after securing a new patent in the country for its Olepent cosmetic peptides.

The patent was granted for the ingredient’s use in maintaining water hydration by increasing the expression of a water channel protein called aquaporin 5 (AQPS).

According to the Sabinsa team, the patent underlines how the ingredients support an increase in expression of genes and associated proteins that improve skin barrier function in hydration deficient human skin. 

Peptides are among the most popular skincare ingredient and are especially popular in anti-ageing and mature skin formulations because they support naturally occurring peptides found in the skin, to stimulate skin repair and control the signs of ageing. 

Sabinsa’s research and development team have linked the peptide C-terminal fragment of collagen 1, which helps stimulate the synthesis of collagen, with oleanolic acid to demonstrate pro-ageing effects, specifically, elastase and collagenase inhibition. 

Our commitment to research and development is continuing to bring innovations that consumers can soon enjoy,” said Sabinsa founder Dr. Muhanned Majeed.  

This patent provides the added assurance that low-quality copycats won’t easily disrupt the market, which protects our customers.”


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Simon Pitman established his career as a business journalist 25 years ago. He is the founding editor of the Cosmetics Design B2B business journals, which continue to be the leading beauty and personal care news source worldwide. For almost two decades Simon has been focused on what makes the industry tick, uncovering the latest technologies and product launches, as well as the newest trends to impact this fast paced industry. He is also a veteran of the in-cosmetics Group events, and having attended every one of the shows worldwide he has developed a deep knowledge about everything pertaining to cosmetics formulation.

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