Among the plethora of skincare products claiming to reverse the signs of ageing, a new approach is emerging: the concept of well-ageing.
As the name suggests, it means ageing well, rather than trying to turn back the clock or strive for unrealistic ideals. As we age, our skin thins, collagen production slows, cell turnover reduces and skin sags or forms wrinkles in places we wish it wouldn’t.
Stepping away from the societal demands to always look young, well-ageing is a concept that means you look great for your age – at any age – rather than try to claw back the sands of time. So how do you formulate for the well-ageing consumer? And what are they looking for in their skincare regimes?
Well-ageing cosmetic ingredients
The well-ageing consumer is looking for cosmetic ingredients that nurture their skin and protect it from further damage. They want to look good for their age – whether that be 45 or 75 – so want some firming, an emphasis on plumping, but most of all nutrients to restore vibrancy.
Key ingredients to achieve the results the well-ageing consumer is looking includes:
Humectants for instant suppleness. Humectants also have an osmolytic effect, and can help carry actives to the mid layers of the epidermis. Ingredients with this effect can be as simple as glycerin or propanediol, but also include advanced humectant ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA and betaine.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) gives the skin vibrancy and helps combat UV and pollution damage.
Actives with specific restorative activity against UV light and pollution, as these can increase ageing but are sometimes partly unavoidable. Learn about actives that are ideal to restore the skin after sun exposure here.
Peptides to support collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides are biomimetic with the skin and in the right delivery system, can reach deep into the epidermis to give dramatic results. See how effective peptides can be in your well-ageing formulas.
Retinol alternatives to support cell turnover without the risk of irritation. Learn more about retinol alternatives and how they can be a fantastic addition to your cosmetic formulas where skin renewal is an important result for your consumer.
Formulating well-ageing skincare
One of the core principles of well-ageing is to boost vibrancy, and the best way to do that is to protect against trans-epidermal water loss. Water-in-oil (w/o) formulas are ideal to provide a breathable lipid shield to hold moisture in the skin, and by doing so, making it appear more nourished and hydrated, and ensure it remains that way.
One of the problems with traditional w/o formulas is that they can feel greasy, being a majority oil phase. The older your consumer, the more desirable extra lipids may be; otherwise look for clever formulation aids such as Bentone gels (Elementis) that enable you to formulate w/o creams and lotions with as little as 20-25% oil phase.
You can also use light skin feel lipids and silicones to make the end product a sensory delight rather than a greasy slick. Watch how easy you can create a w/o cream using the Bentone gels, especially since they are cold processable!
Serums are also a popular item that fit the well-ageing category. The well-ageing consumer wants the moisture protective benefits of a w/o cream or lotion, but they may also seek out specific spot-treatment type serums, such as:
Anti-ageing serums: packed with actives for a more instant and targeted anti-ageing effect; for example, around the eyes.
Hyperpigmentation serums: to target specific areas of hyperpigmentation on the cheeks or forehead.
Anti-eye bag serums: using actives that specifically target the skin under the eye, to firm and revitalize this specific hard-to-remedy area.
You may have other serum concepts to target specific well-ageing needs. Find out how to formulate serums and then add your chosen actives to suit your specific well-ageing consumer needs!
Why well-ageing is a great trend to follow
Consumers eventually tire of trying to be something they’re not. While anti-ageing may be the core focus of Caucasians and Hispanics from their mid-30s (and Asians and African-Caribbean skin types from their mid-40s), there comes a time when consumers just want to love the skin they’re in.
If you’re not sure of the skin differences, learn how skin ages by different ethnic skin types here. Once they’ve tried and tested various anti-ageing routines for 10-15 years, these consumers will move way from trying to fight the hands of time and instead want a more wholistic approach to the skin they have, and the age they are. It’s about acceptance that ageing is inevitable, but one can look happy, healthy and vibrant at any point in life, rather than chasing an impossible reversal.
Well-ageing is all about boosting the wellness of the skin, combating previous (and ongoing) damage, and supporting natural moisture protection to restore a healthful skin glow.
Speak with your suppliers about their well-ageing actives, and those mentioned in this article, as well as targeted actives to support the well-ageing movement.
Happy formulating!
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