Consumers usually hope for immediately visible effects from cosmetic products. So it’s no wonder that R&D departments are constantly under pressure to come up with new principles and new types of active.

The market researchers at Kline* put cosmetic actives into five categories: plant-based actives, biotechnically obtained actives such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, marine actives, proteins and peptides, plus enzymes and coenzymes. The main skin functionalities of these actives include anti-ageing, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, brightening, lifting and sun protection. The demands placed on anti-ageing products are particularly wide-ranging.

They have to provide DNA protection, act as a source of energy, but should also have anti-stress, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidation, moisturising, skin firming and anti-cellulite properties.

Hence in 2013, half of all facial care products worldwide – and these take the lion’s share of body care products – made anti-ageing claims. Looking forward to 2018 Kline identified anti-ageing actives, with annual growth rates of more than 5 percent, as the greatest driver of growth in the cosmetics industry.

Traditionally Europe is the biggest market for special actives, but in emerging markets growth is becoming significant. So this is something that definitely has to be taken into consideration for future planning.
* Kline Specialty Actives in Personal Care 2013

Angelika Meiss is the Senior Editor at Health and Beauty Media GmbH