Whoever said beauty is only skin deep has never heard of Neurocosmetics. The link between the skin and mind is one of the biggest trends in beauty and personal care right now.
Neurocosmetics refers to a specialised category of skincare products that are designed to interact with the skin’s nervous system. A ground-breaking approach to skincare formulations that focuses on the intricate relationship between the skin and the brain often referred to as the “skin-brain axis”.
The skin is not just a waterproof barrier that protects our body from harmful environmental factors and microbial invasions, it also functions to regulate our body temperature. It is one of the body’s largest organs with its own immune system and a vast network of nerve cells that communicate directly with your brain and can sense and respond to various triggers.
As a sensory and protective organ, it is capable of feeling touch, pain, heat, and cold. This is possible because of its dense network of nerves consisting of different types of receptors and nerve fibres located within the dermis. The skin senses various stimuli and transmits this sensory information to the brain for processing.
Neurocosmetics transcend beyond the traditional role of improving skin appearance that targets just superficial issues like wrinkles or dehydration. They enhance the longevity of skin health and well-being by using specific ingredients that influence the neural receptors in the skin.
These receptors detect different triggers like temperature, pressure and pain, creating sensations such as cooling, warming or relief from discomfort. Sensory ingredients can trigger pleasurable sensory experiences (cooling and warming) impacting both the skin’s sensory perception and the product’s perceived efficacy.
When these products activate skin receptors, they can modulate skin cell functions and directly affect nerve endings. This changes how neurotransmitters, the brain’s chemical messengers are released.
Special neuron cells in the skin can become activated by stress or irritation, releasing neurotransmitters (chemicals) that alter the skin’s appearance and texture. This can impair the skin’s barrier function and affect our mood by causing stress through the release of hormones such as cortisol.
Cell-communicating ingredients are versatile, actively working to reduce inflammation and relax expression muscles, which contributes to smoother skin and balanced cortisol levels.
Neuropeptides are specialised molecules that are biomimetic and can mimic the natural processes in the body, like those that calm down nerve signals. Other ingredients can interact with nerve endings in the skin, influencing cellular activities such as collagen production and skin barrier enhancement.
Engaging the senses through the smell and feel of a product can have a positive impact on the nervous system and well-being. Tactile and olfactory ingredients can influence the texture and scent of products and play significant roles in the sensory impact of Neurocosmetics, influencing stress levels and trigger positive emotions through olfactory stimulation.
A multi-sensory experience can feature calming aromatherapeutic scents or a skincare routine to contribute to a more relaxed and positive feeling, hence improving mood. This interaction is mediated by several mechanisms, including neurological, immunological and hormonal pathways.
Neurocosmetic ingredients can modulate essential chemicals in the skin in a way that is similar to the body’s natural brain chemicals. This can help to prolong the life of skin cells and mitigate the skin’s response to stress and inflammation. These ingredients interact with neurotransmitters in the skin, which makes them more active by influencing the nervous system.
As a result of this, they provide anti-ageing benefits by penetrating the skin barrier and working on the surface. For instance, a moisturiser might contain ingredients such as peptides, adaptogens or probiotics that can reduce inflammation, calm the skin and reduce the sensation of discomfort or stress, a common nuance experienced by menopausal skin.
The field of Neurocosmetics is expanding as scientific research and innovative technologies progress and consumer interest in skin health solutions grows. Ingredient selection is key in Neurocosmetics and there are numerous ways to incorporate them into a formulation.
The physiological effects of Neurocosmetic formulas with emotional potential to affect human skin sensory neuron activity, aligns with the wellness movement and positions it at the forefront of innovation in the beauty industry.
References
- Slominski A, Wortsman J. Neuroendocrinology of the skin. Endocr Rev. 2000 Oct;21(5):457-87. doi: 10.1210/edrv.21.5.0410. Erratum in: Endocr Rev 2002 Jun;23(3):364. PMID: 11041445.
- Martins AM, Ascenso A, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. The Brain-Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System. Cells. 2020 Mar 26;9(4):796. doi: 10.3390/cells9040796. PMID: 32224981; PMCID: PMC7226493.
- Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066
- Dayan N. Skin Aging Handbook [Electronic Resource] : An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development / Edited by Nava Dayan. William Andrew; 2008.
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