A decade ago, a logo on packaging could make or break a beauty brand.
Labels like COSMOS, Leaping Bunny, or B-Corp offered instant credibility, signalling to customers that a product was ethical, sustainable, or cruelty-free.
Nowadays, those certifications still hold value, yet they no longer suffice. Consumers are becoming more sceptical, regulators are scrutinising, and watchdogs are exposing the gaps between a certification’s promise and a brand’s actual practices.
The backlash against B-Corp certification in particular marks a turning point. If billion-dollar corporations with questionable practices can wear the same ethical badge as pioneering indie brands, what does the certification truly guarantee? Not to blame the system, but ethos might get lost on a scale.
B-Corp had a waiting list for 2 years, which shows how quickly they had to scale up while onboarding really major clients like Nestle; they were dealing with really small companies that had 1-2 employees.
Another consideration is the impact and its calculation. As someone who has gone through the certification process, I still cannot justify why, in New Zealand, where more than 90% of the materials are exported, it is necessary to buy components from someone in New Zealand, especially since they are already exporting the goods.
On the other hand, I think being ‘better’ for the employees is one of the big benefits that I have seen through the certification process. It forces the companies to act more fairly to the employees and also supports the diversity of the workforce. This let alone is a big impact.
Sustainability is something that we are exploring, and I think no one can be too direct and fair about it yet. At the end of the day, the overconsumption model that we are living in really does not support a full sustainable system yet, this is related to costs, benefits, and so many other things.
Of course, certifications are a way to simplify complex choices for consumers. Creates credibility, guidelines and in some cases a unity to create a solution for a process that is harmful.
For example, RSPO. RSPO created a unified solution to a whole industry of palm and palm derivatives to source responsibly, minimise deforestation, and save the lives of animals that have been in that ecosystem.
In the limits of the all positive and negative impacts, the roots of being ‘worthy’ to the certificates starts with the brands ethics and supply chain management.
Also, for most of the brands that are actually following almost the same rules day to day, a barrier to entry is cost, since the certifications are costly.
In some cases, it even limits the innovation because the source of the component should be applied by the certification body.
Understandably, brands are showing their views on these topics. For example, The B-Corp backlash. Brands began to express their negative views on the certification process after major multinational brands certified and questioned their viability in following the re-certification process.
At the current market, most brands need to show their source of ingredients, and packaging at least has a sustainability value. Today’s consumers, particularly Gen Z and younger millennials, are both value-driven and information-savvy. They want brands to provide proof, not just logos.
So, what tools can help establish lasting credibility?
- Storytelling: Showing the supply chain, discussing ingredient origins, manufacturing methods, and the process of creating the product can help build trust.
- AI tools: Platforms like Provenance could be an excellent starting point for managing sustainability claims. Also, ChatGPT can help you to start your life cycle analysis of a product.
In a short period of time, I am sure we will see the consumer demand for growing on the proof rather than certification. Certifications are just the beginning to establish credibility. It is the brand’s responsibility to stick to the rules and go the extra mile. To meet market demands and lead effectively, brands must consistently exceed expectations in both sustainability and transparency.
BBC Worklife: Has B-Corp certification turned into corporate greenwashing?
Feeling inspired?
Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?