An amazing show with loads of innovation on display, here is a sum-up of what I saw as the key trends from suppliers…

FEELINGS matter!: Undoubtedly one of the stand-out trends from this year’s show was that skin feel matters. Lecigel (Lucas Meyer) was one of the most talked about launches, winning Gold at the Innovation Zone Awards for Functional ingredient, as it induces ‘moments of happiness’ on application. I also saw sensory launches from AAK (Lipex Shea Light) and a variety of sensory effects from functional ingredients from Gattefosse (wax butters such as Acticire, Compritol 888CG and Lipocire) with an inspiring Interactive Formulation Lab session highlighting the different textures and sensory experiences from these materials! I also saw multiple material launches to create the latest ‘gel crème’ textures, ‘bouncy feel’ materials and non-greasy oily gels and serums.

High SCIENCE: always exciting to see are launches translating advanced scientific findings into visible skin care benefits. Materials launched included:

• SWT-7 (Lucas Meyer): influenced by discoveries in reconstructive tissue engineering for the treatment of burn injuries translated to visible anti-ageing results within 7 days;
• ProRenew Complex CLR (CLR): based on probiotic technology, this active stimulates proteins and enzymes to accelerate and improve skin renewal for anti-ageing benefits;
• Brightenyl (Induchem): activated by the Stratum microbium, this material shows dramatic complexion enhancing effects; within 84 days there is an 18x reduction in UV spots, 150% reduction in hyperpigmentation and 600% less redness plus 16x brighter looking skin.

Ensuring INSTANT effects: it was great to see more and more ‘instant’ effect materials at this year’s show, to give consumers the results they are looking for; examples include instant ‘brightening’ from IBR Phytofluene (IBR) and instant firming from Vin-uplift (Mibelle Biochemistry).

Spreading Anti-Pollution actives: the popularity of anti-pollution actives to protect the skin from pollution induced damage, free radicals and ageing was evident with even more launches this year: IBR Pristinizer (IBR), Exo-P (Lucas Meyer; this material also won the Gold Award at the Innovation Zone for Active materials), Elixiance Biofunctional (Ashland), Solashield (Solabia Group) and Cell’intact (ID Bio).

Feeling GOOD about neuro-cosmetics: continuing to grow is the trend toward neuro-cosmetics; launches included CM-Glucan Forte (Mibelle Biochemistry), Agascalm (Provital) and Mariliance (Soliance). The concept is revolutionary: instead of just providing anti-irritant benefits on application, these actives actually work within the skin to build up a ‘tolerance’ of sorts, enabling the user to become less sensitive to inflammatory mediators in general, when used regularly.

Multi-functional materials becoming a staple: with so many suppliers now providing materials with multi-functional effects both as functional and active ingredients, there were too many launches in this area to list! Speak to your supplier about their latest multi-functional offerings, now becoming a necessary addition to all high performing and advanced sensory formulas!

Don’t miss out on a minute of the action – if you are supplying innovative materials then in-cosmetics in your region is the place to have them on display! Want to see the latest launches for yourself? Then get to your closest in-cosmetics and stay tuned for more exciting trend reports!

Launching at the next in-cosmetics?

Make sure to email me with your innovations prior to the show and/or come and visit me at the IPCS (Institute of Personal Care Science) stand during the show, and you could be mentioned at the Press Conference, in cosmetic review magazines, on video or in post-show blogs and reviews!

Belinda Carli is the Official Technical Advisor to the in-cosmetics group and Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS). IPCS is an Internationally Recognised Training Institute and leader in Distance Training in Cosmetic Formulation, Brand Management and Regulatory Affairs offering workshop, Certificate and Diploma level courses. Contact Belinda and the team for assistance with your training, formulation, brand management or regulatory requirements: belinda@personalcarescience.com.au or visit www.personalcarescience.com.au for more information.