At the fringes of skincare lies the quasi-medical category of dermo-cosmetic products that help to treat increasingly common skin conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, reactive skin and extreme sensitivity. This category has been growing in response to the increased incidence of allergy and lifestyle-related skin complaints.

Historically, the dermo-cosmetics market is more developed in Western Europe, especially in France, Italy and Spain. According to leading dermo-cosmetic skincare brand Eau Thermale Avene, the European market for dermo-cosmetics was valued at €6.95billion in 2015, up 3.9% on the previous year.

So far this year, Mintel* has recorded an increasing percentage of beauty and personal care products launched in Europe that carry a dermatological-tested claim. In 2016, there have been 26% of products with this claim, up from 22% in 2014.

Mintel global skincare analyst, David Tyrell, explains the reasons for this trend: “Institutional distrust grows each day and consumers look to third parties to advise them on which products are safe to buy. Dermatological claims help to reassure them that a product is safe. Brands that attach a dermatologist-recommended claim or even work with dermatologists to develop a product will gain greater consumer interest.”

A further reason for growth has been the global consumer interest in health, wellness and benefit-driven products. “More and more consumers are concerned about the real effectiveness of their skincare products and long-term effects on skin health, especially consumers with skin conditions,” maintains Martine Butault, International Press Relation Manager for Pierre Fabre’s Eau Thermale Avene. “Our approach to skincare is ethical, rooted in a medical approach with a strong relationship with health professionals (dermatologists and pharmacists).”

Avene products are developed, clinically tested and manufactured according to the standards set out by the pharmaceutical industry. “This is a key point of differentiation from many other cosmetic companies,” states Butault, who says that their clinical trials last four to six months longer than the average dermo-cosmetics line. The company dedicates 4.5 percent of its total revenue to R&D.

Avene’s overall bestseller is Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray which is clinically proven to soothe irritated skin. It is a multipurpose product for use on puffy eyelids, as a make-up remover, to brighten skin tone and help sooth and calm redness, sunburn and skin irritation. Next is Avene Cicalfate, a technologically advanced restoratice skin cream, clinically proven to accelerate the recovery process and maintain an optimal healing environment. It helps to reduce the appearance of scarring and can be used by adults, children and infants. Avene’s third biggest seller is Skin Recovery Cream which is a sterile cosmetic cream formulated with a minimum of ingredients and containing only the essential actives for the most sensitive skins and no preservatives. Avene claim to be the only brand globally to offer this new generation of dermo-cosmetics.

Mintel GNPD identifies new dermo-cosmetic ranges

• German company InnoBeauty GmbH manufactures the DMC Dermo Cosmetics range that has been developed with the latest advances in dermo-cosmetic research and scientifically proven active ingredient concentrations. The dermatologically tested products are free from traditional preservatives and are presented in hygienic packaging. New to the range last year was the “ultra Feuchtigkeit” Ultra Moisture Serum, containing a hyaluron complex and designed to noticeably moisturise the skin and retain moisture for a smooth, well-groomed feeling.
• Comodynes is a dermo-cosmetic company created and developed with the highest quality, safety and tolerance guaranteed by Dermofarm Labs. The company claims to anticipate consumer needs in order to develop solutions for all skin types and needs. Products are designed with modern fast-paced lifestyles in mind, such as the Urban Cosmetics Make-up Remover Flash Edition micellar cleansing towelettes for sensitive skin, made from 100% natural fibres.
• La Roche-Posay Redermic (R) is designed to provide complete resurfacing, anti-ageing care dedicated to sensitive skin and inspired by dermatology. The dermatologically tested line is formulated with retinol and is designed to assist with skin problems including accentuated wrinkles, grey and irregular skin tone and environmental ageing from external factors such as sun exposure, pollution or tobacco. It is developed for people intolerant to nickel and is suitable for all skin types, having been tested in extreme conditions, urban environments with pollution and sun exposure, as well as on sensitive skin.

A transition from skincare to colour cosmetics

Dermatologist-recommended brands have some of the most loyal purchasers across the skincare market due to a consumer belief that the products are effective and safe for the skin. As a result, Mintel notes that skincare claims are rapidly becoming a key, sometimes essential, talking point amongst many colour cosmetic products. “Users of facial skin and body dermo-cosmetics will be keen to use colour cosmetics with similar benefits,” maintains Tyrrell. “Younger consumers in particular look for multipurpose products that can save them time.”

Mintel has seen dermo-cosmetic brands expand their product ranges to feature colour cosmetics with skin health or dermo-cosmetic benefits, such as anti-inflammation, redness reduction or anti-ageing. They also include product-tested claims associated with dermo-cosmetic products, such as for sensitive skin, dermatologically tested and free from claims concerning parabens and fragrance. For example, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Teint Ultra-Workable Fluid Corrective Foundation, SPF 25, is formulated with a new patented texturising agent that easily glides onto intolerant skin for a natural make-up result for long-lasting comfort. “Dermocosmetic brands have successfully used this strategy, proving that it can transition equally well to colour cosmetics,” affirms Tyrell.

The future of dermo-cosmetics looks healthy, with anticipated growth rates of between 4-5% annually. Changes to the way drugs can be sold throughout Europe, accompanied by a real transformation of pharmacy has given impetus to the category over the last 15 years. According to Butault, it is an industry that primarily allows the pharmacist to complete and diversify its product offering – in addition to a medical prescription, or simply alone dependent on the need of the consumer. “Today this segment has become a must in pharmacy,” she maintains.

*Mintel will present at next year’s in-cosmetics Marketing Trends presentations in London, which takes place 4-6 April.

Further information at www.in-cosmetics.com

Author: Imogen Matthews