9 May, Paris
in-cosmetics Global closed its doors on Thursday, 18 April after experts from across the globe converged in Paris to explore the latest advancements in the global cosmetic and personal care ingredients industry. The event saw attendance peak as it returned to the Porte de Versailles Expo with almost 12,400 visitors and over 1,000 exhibitors – an increase of 14.8% and 13.1% on 2023, respectively. International visitors travelled to the City of Lights from over 117 countries to network, learn, and discover new products and services.
AT-SHOW LAUNCHES
Sponsored by KSM-66 Ashwagandha, in-cosmetics Global serves as a launch pad for the industry to unveil its latest products, services, and insights. Industry giants such as Ashland, BASF, Clariant, Evonik, Lubrizol, Nouryon, and Symrise, alongside new exhibitors, start-ups, and SMEs, welcomed visitors to their stands for exciting announcements and launches.
Leading US-based personal care formulation expert, Grant Industries, unveiled three brand new active ingredients: its Granactive Retinoid™ Pro+, Bakuchiol Ester BCR, a natural retinol alternative and combination of Bakuchuyl Salicylate and Vitamin F Glyceryl Esters, and Gransense® TC-55C/C. Ashland launched three new products; perfectyl™ biofunctional, styleze™ es forza ingredient, and n-durance™ es-repair ingredient while Evonik presented its growing biosolutions portfolio, focusing on biotech actives and eco-friendly biosurfactants. Meanwhile, Saudi Arabia-based Alula Peregrina, showcased its recently launched Virgin AlUla Peregrina™ Oil, rich in gondoic acid, which can be found in a number of luxury products on the market.
Among the notable innovations from the French market was Givaudan Active Beauty’s Silk-iCare, a vegan silk protein aimed at ‘protecting and repairing’ the skin. The company also unveiled Neuroglow, an active ingredient designed to safely replicate the positive effects of the sun and achieve a sought-after glow, along with Illuminyl 388, a highly potent skin-brightening prebiotic offering a range of benefits. Both Neuroglow and Illuminyl 388 were shortlisted for the in-cosmetics Global Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award and were highly commended by the judges, with Givaudan praised for consistently leading the market with innovative new launches. Meanwhile, Actichem introduced Resvinia, a groundbreaking natural hair care ingredient sourced from upcycled French vine shoots.
In the Testing, Regulation & Lab Zone, Skinobs launched its Skinobs V2.0 platform, an enhanced version of the original aimed at optimising evaluation projects and expanding knowledge of tests. A webinar of the testing trends present in the Zone is available on demand.
Facilitating countless opportunities to connect, attendees were able to actively collect exhibitor and product details through the show’s digital Colleqt QR service and Emperia app, which enable attendees to access and download in-depth, technical specifications and information using their own smartphones. Across both platforms, nearly 200,000 connections (100,405 and 95,499 respectively) were made between exhibitors and visitors on the show floor. dsm-firmenich, Givaudan Active Beauty, SEPPIC SA, JRS – J. Rettenmaier & Söhne, Lubrizol Life Science, Solabia Group, Clariant, Syensqo, Croda, and Symrise were the top scanned exhibitors.
A PLACE TO LEARN, CONNECT AND EXPLORE
The event’s core pillars—science, sustainability, and innovation—were reflected in the show’s seven dedicated conference theatres which offered live seminars, interactive workshops, Q&As, and panels across the three days. Specialists from Mintel, Pierre Fabre, Mibelle Biochemistry, The Green Chemist Consultancy, Kline, Euromonitor International, Lubrizol Life Science and many more, touched on topics from cosmetic science and sustainability to technological advancement, AI, market intelligence, and beyond.
Over 90 Technical Seminars shared scientific findings and offered inspiration for new product formulations. Sessions were hosted by leading experts from the Little Soap Company, Active Concepts, Croda, Centric Software, Mérieux NutriSciences, dsm-firmenich, MyMicrobiome, plus more. Joonseok Cha, PhD, Research Director at The Garden of Naturalsolution, led a popular seminar on ‘Anti-ageing: Top to Bottom’, which focused on the emerging trend of ‘slow and well ageing’ over ‘anti-ageing’ as he noted that teenagers as young as 14-years-old are adopting practices to target wrinkles. Cha shared research findings on brown energy, Irish moss extract, Leafresh, and dokollagen, underscoring their potential in helping to slow the ageing process, naturally.
Paul Salama, Ph.D, Eng., CTO & Head of Innovation at Sharon Personal Care, delivered a seminar on ‘Harnessing the power of vitamins for combined antimicrobial preservation & skin benefits’, introducing its Sharon™ AQUAVITA, a next-generation multifunctional preservation, combining a clean-label system for antimicrobial efficacy with superior skin care benefits. Guglielmo Bifulco, Marketing and Sales Manager at Kalichem, spoke on ‘100% natural conditioning active: Hair detangling, anti-frizz and styling action’, while Charlie Silver, CEO and Co-Founder and Denis Ontumi, Director of Product Application of Ruby Bio, delved into naturally evolved ingredients and formulation expertise in their session, ‘Natural Chemistry, a new performance-first glycolipid platform’.
Technical Advisor and award-winning cosmetic scientist, Lorna Radford, presented and managed 21 interactive science-based workshops sessions in the Formulation Lab®, sponsored by Brenntag GmbH. Leading suppliers Nouryon, Ashland, Lubrizol Life Science, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Dow Silicones, plus many others guided R&D and lab staff from cosmetic and contract manufacturers, private labels, and indie brands through new and innovative formulation techniques, from water-in-oil emulsions and pigmented products, to customised all-natural serums and bio-based alternatives to traditional emulsifiers.
The R&D Tours explored Neurocosmetics, Advancement in Microbiome, and Skinification of the Scalp with sponsors Mibelle Biochemistry, Probiotical, and Symrise. Visitors were led across the expansive show floor to visit numerous exhibitors showcasing their solutions within these trends. Fred Zülli Ph.D., Founder of Mibelle Biochemistry, introduced the concept of emotional beauty and the emerging field of neuroscience, highlighting the link between skin and the brain mediated through the endocrine and nervous systems. Zülli unveiled TiMOOD, an ingredient sourced from a citrus fruit native to Nepal, which enhances cognitive function and skin appearance.
Bustling with crowds, the highly sought-after Marketing Trends Theatre revealed some of the key trends influencing the industry today; neurocosmetics, wellness, ageing, and natural beauty. Nikola Matic, Vice President of Chemicals Market Research at Kline & Co, provided insights into ‘The personal care ingredients market and its trajectory beyond 2024.’ He highlighted that despite challenges, the personal care ingredients market remains sizeable, estimated at approximately US$35 billion with moderated growth stemming from China. Looking ahead, Matic outlined that key trends and drivers will include multifunctionality, naturality, sensory experience, and sustainability with significant growth opportunities expected in India and Africa.
Belinda Carli, B Nat Therapies; Dip Cos Sci, Director, Institute of Personal Care Science, delivered a session on ‘The mind-skin connection: How to incorporate psychodermatology in cosmetic formulas.’ She emphasised the growing impact of stress in society, which affects consumers and their skin health, with around 40% of individuals with skin disorders also experiencing mental health issues. Carli noted some of the marketing and regulatory challenges in discussing the psychological impact of cosmetics, explaining that brands must navigate these regulations carefully while spotlighting high-performing ingredients to differentiate their products effectively.
A consistent theme seen throughout the event was wellness; a booming trend growing in multiple sectors. Lucie Green, Founder of Light Years, inspired attendees on how the trend is influencing innovations in the beauty industry, quoting that it will be driven by generations of consumers progressively incorporating wellness into their lives, be it through beauty, work, fashion, exercise, or sleep. According to Green, the wellness trend is rapidly expanding, projected to grow at a rate of 8.6% annually, reaching a value of $8.5 trillion by 2027.
INNOVATING TOMORROW
At the heart of the event, the Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland and in partnership with Mintel, set the stage for a record-breaking showcase of 198 new and recently launched active and functional ingredients from the likes of LipoTrue, Mibelle Biochemistry, Provital, Biodiversité, Laboratoires Expanscience, Colonial Chemical Inc, Eurofragance SLU, Givaudan Active Beauty, Hallstar Beauty, and more. Each ingredient was entered into the in-cosmetics Global Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient Award and Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient Award 2024.
Scooping the Gold award for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award Active Ingredients category was raw materials and ingredients manufacturer, dsm-firmenich, for its ETERWELL™ YOUTH. In the Functional Ingredients category, specialty chemicals leader, Evonik, secured first prize for its ECOHANCE® Remo XP, a versatile and mild ingredient that functions as a rheology modifier, hydrophilic emollient, and sensory enhancer. Other awards, including the Green Ingredient Award, the Kenvue Trusted Science Award, the Sustainable Stand Award, the Rising Star Award, the Sensory Bar Award, and the Make Up Bar Award, were celebrated at the in-cosmetics Global Awards and After Party, sponsored by Kenvue. The full list of winners can be found here.
Reflecting some of the most popular trends in the industry, bentone Hydroluxe by Elementis, BergaCare FG Gel by Berg + Schmidt, Play Dough Patch-to-cleanser by Eigenmann and Veronelli, CycloRetin™ by Clariant, and ExoGiov by Ascension Medical Technology were among the most scanned innovations in the zone by Colleqt.
Further celebrating innovation, The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) New Incubation Ventures (NIV) group awarded Enantis, a private protein engineering company hailing from the Czech Republic, as the overall winner of its BRKTHRU VOICES prize. The brand-new partnership with in-cosmetics Global recognised ground-breaking innovation in a dedicated prize ceremony, awarding Enantis with a $10,000 grant, access to the NIV mentorship programme, and use of the NIV Network, marking their triumphant venture into the cosmetics field. Among the shortlisted contenders for the prize were Ascension Medical Biotechnology, Oriel Marine Extracts, Sethic Innovation Labs, and SupadElixir Co. Ltd.
LAYING A GREENER GROUNDWORK
Sustainability stood as a cornerstone of the show, showcasing the industry’s concerted efforts towards a greener, cleaner future. The Sustainability Zone, in partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy and partnered with Ecovia Intelligence, featured exhibitors showcasing their new, natural, and organic innovations.
The Sustainability Zone Display area, sponsored by AAK , showcased 54 products, including BIONAP S.R.L’s OPUNTIA BIOCOMPLEX™ SH, a powder extract obtained from the juice of Opuntia cladodes; CURIE CO. INC’s Curamina™, a naturally derived bioactive bond-builder for the proteins that drive personal care and fashion and Green Ingredient Gold Award winner Boreal Bioproducts’ SpruceSugar™, a biodegradable, grease barrier film-former, anionic surfactant, and low viscosity modifier.
In the Sustainability Zone Theatre, Marie Marache, Mission & Impact Director at Groupe Rocher, and Clément Azam, CSR & Sustainable Development Manager at Pierre Fabre, discussed the ‘Green Impact Index’. They highlighted the growing consumer awareness of environmental impact, emphasising that consumers now prioritise brands that align with their values and will lose faith in those with unclear or untruthful sustainability claims.
In the Sustainability Zone Forum, curated by Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy – Professor Daniele Cespi from Toso Montanari Alma Mater Studiorum presented on integrating green chemistry with an LCA approach in ingredients development, while Emilija Balsyte, Fashion & Beauty Analyst at Euromonitor International, provided insights on consumer demands towards sustainability.
Also in the zone, the Sustainability Pavilion, powered by Farmforce, served as a dedicated space where attendees could identify and explore sustainable solutions across the entire cosmetics value chain. Against the backdrop of over half (52%) of visitors flagging their top sustainability goal as having greater ingredients and material transparency, the Pavilion provided the ideal hub for connection and collaboration. Farmforce, which enables businesses to trace and verify their supply chains and ensure ethical sourcing and environmental accountability, was joined by industry leaders, the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) and Ecovia, to
provide a platform for discovering solutions and suppliers committed to driving sustainability forward.
Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director of in-cosmetics Global, said: “This year’s event was a resounding success. We’ve received overwhelmingly positive feedback from our exhibitors and visitors, which is testament to the hard work and dedication of everyone involved. I want to extend a heartfelt thank you to all our sponsors and partners who contributed to this achievement.
“It is truly amazing to facilitate the world’s leading event that promotes cosmetic science, innovation, and sustainability, and on behalf of everyone at in-cosmetics Global, it has been a pleasure to once again provide a platform for the global cosmetics and personal care community to connect, learn, and innovate together. We’re looking forward to welcoming our industry again to in-cosmetics Global 2025 in Amsterdam.”
in-cosmetics Global 2025 will take place from 8-10 April 2025 at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre, Amsterdam, the Netherlands. For more information and to register to attend, visit here.
