The global skincare market is embracing longevity-focused skincare, with some retailers worldwide introducing ‘slow-ageing’ corners. This shift signals a major move toward products that enhance skin function over time rather than offering temporary anti-ageing solutions.
The beauty industry consistently looks to South Korea for the latest skincare innovations, and as a product innovator, I do too. As formulators and raw material manufacturers, we know that skincare breakthroughs don’t just happen overnight.
Novel ingredients and innovative product formulations are usually the result of years of clinical research, clinical studies and consumer feedback. All in the pursuit of developing something truly remarkable that could become a household name.
If you’ve been paying close attention to ingredient advancements and seen the buzz around salmon DNA injections, you’re already familiar with the latest star ingredient in K-beauty, ‘Polydeoxyribonucleotides’ (PDRNs).
What started as a viral skin-boosting injectable, brands are now racing to integrate this DNA-derived regenerative ingredient into serums, creams and even sheet masks, quickly becoming a global sensation.
What exactly is Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN)?
PDRNs are low-molecular-weight DNA fragments commonly extracted from salmon or trout, clinically proven to stimulate fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells), enhance tissue repair and boost hydration levels deep within the skin (Shin et al., 2023).
Molecularly, PDRN ranges from 50 to 1,500 kDa, meaning it’s small enough to trigger biological activity yet substantial enough to support long-term skin repair.
PDRN activates A2A adenosine receptors, which regulate anti-inflammatory responses, promote cell growth and stimulate new blood vessel formation. This improves oxygen and nutrient delivery to the skin, key for skin longevity.
PDRN’s origins: From regenerative medicine to beauty
PDRN originated in Italy in the early 1980s as a breakthrough in wound healing and regenerative medicine.
It was first documented as an active component in human placenta extracts, used to treat radiation-induced skin lesions (radiodermatitis) and repair damaged tissue through a PDRN-rich ointment.
By the 1990s and 2000s, clinical studies revealed PDRN as a bioactive mixture of short DNA fragment chain lengths between (50–2,000 base pairs), tiny DNA sequences that help the body repair and grow new cells.
Research demonstrated that PDRN significantly stimulates fibroblast proliferation, leading to increased collagen production and accelerated wound recovery (Tonello et al., 1996).
This led to the development of the first PDRN-based injectable tissue regenerating formulation, derived from placental extracts.
However, due to ethical and supply limitations of human placenta, manufacturers turned to alternative sources, such as salmon DNA and microbial fermentation.
From there, PDRN quickly transitioned into cosmetic dermatology, expanding across different industries and regions.
Aesthetic clinical trials validated its effectiveness in improving skin elasticity, texture and fine wrinkles, securing its place as a regenerative cosmetic treatment. By the early 2010s, PDRN-based treatments became widely recognised as “skin boosters”.
PDRN in skincare formulation
The adoption in dermatology clinics is especially notable in South Korea, a study by Kim et al. in 2023 reported that 88% considered PDRN-based skin boosters among the most in-demand injectable treatments.
As K-Beauty continues to influence global skincare trends, PDRN is the next “must-have” ingredient, evolving from injectables to skincare.
Leading K-Beauty brands are already incorporating PDRN into their formulations, with some shifting from salmon-derived sources to sustainable, bioengineered alternatives that maintain the same DNA profile if not better.
Regulatory guidelines vary by region, with PDRN usage concentrations typically ranging from 0.1% to 2.0% in formulations. This opens up new opportunities for formulators and manufacturers to expand PDRN’s global reach.
PDRN formulation considerations
While PDRN works brilliantly as an injectable skin booster, incorporating it into skincare presents formulation challenges.
Primarily due to molecular size and penetration, large molecular size makes skin penetration difficult, requiring advanced methods to improve bioavailability. As for stability concerns, PDRN is a nucleotide-based ingredient, requiring stabilisation to prevent degradation.
Microneedling therapy has emerged as revolutionary, as studies show PDRN serums combined with microneedling improve absorption, skin density and elasticity.
The industry is rapidly shifting toward plant-based and bioengineered PDRNs, offering sustainability without compromising efficacy. This reflects the fast-paced innovations emerging in the skincare industry.
The future of PDRN in beauty
PDRN’s journey from 1980s regenerative medicine to modern skincare formulations is a testament to the power of science-backed innovations in cosmetic science.
With the right formulation and delivery, PDRN based skincare offers unparalleled benefits, enhancing hydration, improving texture and strengthening skin resilience.
Once again, K-Beauty has transformed a regenerative innovation into a mainstream skincare breakthrough and as a formulator, I look forward to seeing how PDRN continues to evolve.
The global demand of PDRN skincare proves one thing, consumers are prioritising scientifically backed, results-driven formulations. With its proven efficacy and rising popularity, PDRN is set to reshape longevity-focused skincare for years to come.
References:
Thellung, S., Florio, T., Maragliano, A., Cattarini, G., & Schettini, G. (1999). Polydeoxyribonucleotides enhance the proliferation of human skin fibroblasts: Involvement of A₂ purinergic receptor subtypes. Life Sciences, 64(18), 1661–1674.
Nguyen TH, Wang SL, Nguyen VB. Recent advances on polydeoxyribonucleotide extraction and its novel application in cosmeceuticals. Int J Biol Macromol. 2024 Dec;282(Pt 3):137051. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.137051. Epub 2024 Oct 30. PMID: 39486723.
European Patent Office (2022) Cosmetic composition and method for lightening the skin. Patent No. EP3964577NWA1.
Muratore O, Pesce Schito A, Cattarini G, Tonoli EL, Gianoglio S, Schiappacasse S, Felli L, Picchetta F, Schito GC. Evaluation of the trophic effect of human placental polydeoxyribonucleotide on human knee skin fibroblasts in primary culture. Cell Mol Life Sci. 1997 Mar;53(3):279-85. doi: 10.1007/pl00000605. PMID: 9104493; PMCID: PMC11147285.
Shin SM, Baek EJ, Kim KH, Kim KJ, Park EJ. Polydeoxyribonucleotide exerts opposing effects on ERK activity in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Mol Med Rep. 2023 Aug;28(2):148. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2023.13035. Epub 2023 Jun 23. PMID: 37350391; PMCID: PMC10308489.
Kim, B.J., Lee, S.Y., & Park, J.H. (2023). A survey on the cosmetic use of injectable polynucleotide: The pattern of practice among Korean dermatologists. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(3), 123-130.
Squadrito F, Bitto A, Irrera N, Pizzino G, Pallio G, Minutoli L, Altavilla D. Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN. Front Pharmacol. 2017 Apr 26;8:224. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2017.00224. Erratum in: Front Pharmacol. 2022 Nov 21;13:1073510. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2022.1073510. PMID: 28491036; PMCID: PMC5405115.
Rho NK, Han KH, Cho M, Kim HS. A survey on the cosmetic use of injectable polynucleotide: The pattern of practice among Korean Dermatologists. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;23(4):1243-1252. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16125. Epub 2023 Dec 13. PMID: 38093498.
Feeling inspired?
Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?