Peptide technology in cosmetic formulas has been around for more than 10 years, and the results you can obtain when using peptides – especially in the presence of suitable delivery agents – can be outstanding. So how do brands differentiate their performance in light of significant and often developed competitors?
This article will look at some of the latest innovations in peptide technology and formulation to yield even better results for today’s discerning consumer. Not sure of the difference between peptides, proteins and collagen, or how they should be used in cosmetic formulas? Watch this video for some great background information and then learn more about the peptide innovations we’re seeing in the cosmetic industry.
Cosmetic peptide innovation #1: In silico and AI development
Research and development of cosmetic ingredients has utilized Artificial Intelligence (AI) and ‘in silico’ methods (meaning computer simulations or models) to generate peptide solutions like never before. Using AI and computer models, raw material suppliers like Lipotrue are creating optimized peptides, and combinations of peptides, to target specific enzymes and biomarkers to obtain their results.
Their latest launch, SP(AI)3 is turning heads by using such unique technology to create a hexapeptide that targets the 3 markers involved in sebum synthesis, pore size and inflammation for outstanding anti-acne results.
Cosmetic peptide innovation #2: Cyclic peptides
Peptides are the combination of amino acids into – usually – chains. While still extremely small, these chains are typically linear and contain a specific subset of amino acids to yield a desired action. Cyclic peptides are a new technology used by cosmetic suppliers that sets these amino acids into a continuous ring, stabilised by hydrogen bonds, to give advanced activity, stability and efficacy.
An example of cyclic peptide formation aimed at counteracting the impact of wrinkle formation at various times in the day has been launched, again, by Lipotrue. Their material Poptide shows they are one of the key leaders in peptide innovations and technology for the cosmetic industry.
Cosmetic peptide innovation #3: Crystallisation
Peptides often come highly diluted in solutions to make them water soluble and easy to add to cosmetic formulas in the cool down stage of processing. Crystallisation, however, provides a super-concentrated powder form of the peptide that can easily be solubilized in a water loving solvent (like glycerin) and then added to formulas. Crystallisation involves taking a highly saturated solution where individual peptides come together and form a crystal-like concentrate.
Using patented crystallization techniques, Active Peptide Company have created their eye-catching blue GHK-Cu Copper Peptide powder, for advanced anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing results.
Cosmetic peptide innovation #4: Hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides
Peptides used in cosmetic formulas are either:
• tripeptides or hexapeptides that have been synthetically produced;
• extracts rich in certain peptides, where the efficacy of the extract can be directly traced back to the presence of the proteins/peptides present in the plant material; or
• hydrolysed proteins.
Of these, the use of hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides has been largely under-rated – until now. Hydrolysed proteins and hydrolysed silk are essentially the original protein broken down into peptide chains to make them small enough to be biomimetic with the skin and hair, and easy to incorporate into a cosmetic formula.
The original protein is far too large and insoluble to be of any use; but when it is in the hydrolysed form it can be delivered easily through personal care. In this form it provides the peptide building blocks that repair hair and skin and provide a protective, breathable film against further damage. The results are noticeable straight away, yet there is no residue.
Hydrolysed proteins are also highly substantive, meaning there are certain grades that are particularly resistant to wash off and have proven efficacy in rinse off cosmetic formulas. Don’t underestimate the power of these peptide sources – while not deep acting like tripeptides and hexapeptides, their activity at the surface of the skin or hair is incredibly important for barrier repair, maintenance and instantaneous results.
Cosmetic peptide innovation #5: Multi-peptide combinations
Peptides are only needed in very small amount in cosmetic formulas, which is a good thing, because they are usually quite expensive. You only need a relatively small input of these materials to get great results, but they can add to the cost of a cosmetic formula quite significantly.
It is interesting to see that some of the more luxury brands, where performance is absolutely essential, are using combinations of peptides. They may describe their product as containing a peptide ‘cocktail’, or as a peptide ‘blend’, or even multi-peptide serum like in this example.
Consumers will readily pay more for a product with clinically proven efficacy, and these blended peptide formulas can often yield outstanding multi-faceted results from the tiny but effective peptide molecules they contain.
Keep up with peptide innovations in your cosmetic formulas…
While I’ve summarised the latest trends for you, it is up to you to speak directly with your suppliers and check out the Innovation Zone at your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition. You’ll always see the best and latest innovations there, and dozens of suppliers with peptide technology, and perhaps the next best thing, at these amazing events.
Happy formulating!
Feeling inspired?
Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?