by: Gattefossé
Gattefossé developed EleVastinTM, a targeted solution to gravity-induced skin sagging.
This 100% natural origin active targets key players in the synthesis and maintenance of functional elastic fibers. Doing so, it offers undeniable support to the skin, submitted to the daily pressure of gravity.
EleVastinTM reduces the drooping of the lower face. Facial contours are better defined, deep vertical wrinkles are erased and a youthful appearance is restored.
Strengthening of skin elasticity
This active ingredient aims to bring support to the skin by increasing its resilience and capacity to resist the gravity pressure. Skin elasticity has been identified as the key parameter in this process.
The efficacy of EleVastinTM has been demonstrated following a comprehensive process, using in vitro and in vivo methodologies. The ingredient reinforces the skin elastic potential thanks to a stimulating and protective activity on elastic fibers.
On one hand, it boosts the synthesis of three key proteins for the assembly of functional elastic fibers: elastin, fibrillin‑1 and fibulin‑5 are respectively boosted by +43%, +23% and +62% (0.1% EleVastin™- monolayer culture of dermal fibroblasts). On the other hand, it protects the elastic fibers from degradation by inhibiting the proteolytic activity of MMP‑12 with a dose-dependent effect. These results have been confirmed on a more complex 3D bio-engineered skin model.
Through this mechanism of action, EleVastin™ ensures an increase of the density of elastic fibers coupled with an augmented skin elasticity. These last outcomes have been obtained using a spheroid model developed in Gattefossé’s laboratory and relevant to mimic in vitro an elastic tissue. Spheroïds were treated with 0.1% EleVastin™ and analyzed using second harmonic generation microscopy and atomic force microscopy. Researchers uncovered that the newly synthesized elastic fibers were numerous and functional in the treated spheroids, thus ensuring the recovery of tissue elasticity.
This research work was released at the 31st IFSCC Congress 2020 and published in Journal of investigative dermatology in 2019 (1).
Measuring gravity-induced aging signs
The active has been tested at 1% in formula on 37 women, presenting mature skin and clinical signs of facial sagging. It proved its capacity to reduce drooping of the lower face.
Various assessment techniques have been implemented to evaluate the biomechanical properties of the skin and the effects observed on skin sagging.
Skin elasticity is significantly improved vs. placebo (+12%, Cutometry).
Facial contours are better defined (‑5% volume of facial oval) and deep vertical wrinkles visibly reduced (‑18% length / ‑21% volume), as analysis of 3D acquisitions showed.
Besides, a novel and original method was adopted to measure of the effects of gravity on facial morphology. It confirms the ability of EleVastinTM to significantly reduce the impact of gravity on aging signs of the lower face by -49%.
An ayurvedic plant from La Réunion island
Traditional plants used for therapeutic or culinary purposes are an unlimited source of inspiration for Gattefossé scientists. One of these plants, Murraya koenigii, has been used for hundreds of years in ayurvedic medicine and in cuisine. It originates from the Indian sub-continent and it is now widely cultivated in territories bordering the Indian ocean.
In association with Gattefossé’s local, long-time partner, leafy stems of the Murraya koenigii tree are manually harvested from fertilizer-free plots in the preserved environment of La Reunion island. Perfect traceability is ensured from the tree to Gattefossé laboratories.
A complex pool of synergistic phytomolecules (flavonoids, phenolic acids and alpha-hydroxyacids…) is obtained using an innovative blend of solvents from plant origin (betaine, propanediol and water) and gentle extraction process.
This results in a 100% natural origin content according to the ISO norm 16128 and a COSMOS validated ingredient. The ingredient is listed on IECIC 2021.
Array of application
EleVastin™ is intended for anti-aging ranges for mature skin, for treatments dedicated to the contours of the face or specific areas such as the neck and for all products wishing to offer a solution to age or gravity-induced skin sagging. This product can also be considered in body contouring applications for example.